Description
Ada Nada, Langhe Nebbiolo “Serena”
You’ve heard this song many times before, but every time it comes on, it merits a fresh listen: When you see a “Langhe Nebbiolo” on SommSelect, grab it. It’s the same strategy I’d apply to the “Bourgogne Rouge” wines you see here: There are a lot of them out there, but we’re constantly sifting through the mass in search of category-busters like today’s gorgeously perfumed and high-toned Nebbiolo gem from Ada Nada.
It’s the easiest of pitches, really: hand-farmed Nebbiolo from Barbaresco, produced by one of the region’s heritage estates, shipped across the ocean and landing on your table for just $34. Like so many Langhe Nebbiolo bottlings, Ada Nada’s comes from younger vine plantings and spends less time aging in oak relative to a wine labeled “Barbaresco.” It’s got all the aromatic complexity we expect from the Nebbiolo grape, wrapped in a brighter, less tannic package—meaning we can enjoy it now, and often, rather than waiting for those tannins to soften. Today’s 2020, as I said above, stood out in a very crowded field to win its spot on our site. Do the math, find the space, and make this a regular on your table as summer turns to fall!
Langhe Nebbiolos like “Serena” are not-so-secret weapons that, in many cases, are the estate’s way of introducing themselves—the wines they court you with before you decide to walk down the aisle with a pricier Barbaresco or Barolo. In the hands of a heritage producer like Ada Nada, that usually translates into transcendent value. While not as well-known as some other heritage estates of Barbaresco, the Ada Nada property is unquestionably a local landmark. The label was founded by Carlo Nada in 1919 and is now run by fourth-generation proprietor Anna Lisa Nada (daughter of brand namesake Ada) and her husband, Elvio Cazzaro, who’ve both been at the helm since 2001. During that time, the property has gradually expanded from a mere three hectares to its current nine hectares of vineyards, all of them in their home village of Treiso—and mostly within the “Valeirano” and “Rombone” crus. All farming is organic, average vine age is 40 years, and fruit is harvested exclusively by hand.
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For the “Serena” bottling, younger estate vineyards in Treiso provide the fruit, which is hand-harvested and fermented in stainless steel. Maceration on skins during primary fermentation lasts a week or so (much shorter than for Barbaresco), and the finished wine spends three months in French oak barriques, then several months in bottle, before release. Its tannic structure is less intense by design, as is its wood influence, so what you get is pure Nebbiolo fruit and minerality with no adornments.
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This bright and perfumed 2020 shines a deep garnet red in the glass, with a ripe core of red cherry, plum, and red currant fruit supported by scents of violet, rose, white pepper, leather, tobacco, and warm spice. It is medium-bodied, with fine-grained tannins and mouthwatering acidity, with a persistent and highly aromatic finish. Decant it 15 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems and watch it unfold over the course of a great meal. Looking ahead, I could see this being a great choice for the Thanksgiving table, or for any meals incorporating game meats or freshly foraged mushrooms. As always with Nebbiolo, think “woodsy” and you’ll be in great shape. Enjoy!
