Description
Ayres, “Pioneer” Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir
Over the past two decades, two truths in the wine sphere have become self-evident: Ayres is the epitome of artisanal Oregon Pinot and the Willamette Valley is no longer a closely-held secret. The world is now privy to these Burgundy-toppling gems and even though demand has soared, the best bottlings from the top producers still promote value/affordability while shattering pricier competition. That’s especially the case for Ayres, a small-scale artisan crafting under-$40 Pinot Noirs destined for Willamette Valley’s uppermost echelon. I’ll even extend that: In terms of price-to-quality, they are making some of the best Pinots, anywhere.
We eagerly showcase Ayres whenever a parcel is made available, but it’s a sobering reality when it comes to “Pioneer.” This cuvée is always handcrafted in small quantities, so we are extremely fortunate to have any of today’s 2019 in our possession. Only eight barrels were produced. We firmly believe vinous magic is swirling around this “mom and pop” cellar, their sustainably farmed vines, and the pure and noble wine in the glass—dip your nose in and tell me that this doesn’t emit some of the most lucid and soulful aromatics imaginable. My final advice: If you’re thinking three bottles, buy six, and if you’re thinking six, go ahead and buy a case. You’ll never regret it.
The sub-AVA of Ribbon Ridge is a pretty magical place: It’s an outlier region, and the smallest of the Willamette Valley, that’s tucked into the western tip of the greater Chehalem Mountains. You don’t hear as much chatter about Ribbon Ridge as you do the Dundee Hills or the Eola-Amity Hills, but what you do tends to be glowing. Harry Peterson-Nedry of Chehalem Winery is Ribbon Ridge’s great frontiersman, planting its first vineyard (Ridgecrest) in 1980. There are now some very big names in Ribbon Ridge, including Beaux Frères and the great Patricia Green, who arrived the same year (2000) as Brad and Kathleen McLeroy of Ayres. After several vintages making wine under the brilliant wing of Veronique Drouhin (Domaine Drouhin) in the Dundee Hills, Brad McLeroy set out on his own with just a few acres. He has since built that up to 20, all of which are mostly east-facing vines on ancient Willakenzie sediments. McLeroy is a stubborn, terroir purist and by sticking to his game, he is making some of the most sublime Pinot Noir in the Willamette Valley.
Unlike the other sub-appellations of the Willamette Valley, Ribbon Ridge is a distinguished natural geological formation of uniform soils—a unique seabed uplift from the northwest peak of the Chehalem Mountains. It’s not the coolest place in the Willamette, nor is it the warmest, but it hangs its hat on being one of the driest, with a long consistent growing season, less susceptible to temperature spikes and uneven ripening. And with Pinot Noir, the less climatic twists the better!
The McLeroys are steeped in their land: They farm their own vines, they make the wines onsite, and they live there—it doesn’t get more “artisanal” than that. Further, no herbicides or pesticides have ever been used, the vineyards are dry-farmed with organic practices, and the estate has been certified sustainable since 2007. For today’s 2019 “Pioneer,” their oldest Dijon clone vines were selected and fruit was methodically hand-harvested over 10 days. At their cellar, fermentation occurred via natural yeasts with a small portion of whole-cluster fruit to enliven texture and add complexity to the finished wine. The wine spent just under one year in French oak barrels, 15% new.
Brad calls “Pioneer” the “darkest” of his micro-batch Pinot Noirs, thanks in large part to the Dijon clones which produce compact clusters, deeper color, and sometimes more concentration. This 2019 pours a vibrant ruby-purple in the glass and after a 15-minute decant, starts flaunting high-toned aromas of crushed blackberry and raspberry, wild strawberry, and plum pie intertwined with moss, button mushroom, goji berry, baking spice, and damp rose petals. The palate is medium-bodied and a multi-textured core of lush berry fruit and spice courses with energy and lift. Sip it around 60 degrees and throughout the evening to fully allow the aromas to loosen and stretch. Savor your other bottles over the next 5-8 years. Enjoy!
