Description
Azienda Agricola Ronchi, Barbaresco “Ronchi”
I didn’t think I could be surprised by Ronchi Barbaresco anymore. When the 2017 vintage of their single vineyard “Ronchi” arrived, I knew it would be excellent. I knew it would still be an unparalleled value. Having tasted so many vintages of this classic and remarkably consistent wine, I knew exactly what to expect and merely needed to taste the ’17 to confirm the inevitable. But, wouldn’t you know it, they managed to surprise me: In a vintage that wasn’t nearly as hyped as the one that preceded it, they managed to produce one of the most profound versions of “Ronchi” I’ve ever tasted.
This, of course, is what great producers do, and make no mistake: Ronchi is one of Barbaresco’s all-time greats. Don’t let their almost excessively modest pricing fool you. This is a legitimate “collectible” by any measure, and when you take a moment to consider how many world-class, critically acclaimed, cellar-worthy red wines can be had for $45 (hint: there are very few), it only grows more impressive. It’s as close to a sure thing as there is in the world of wine, and at this price you can afford to not only stock up for yourself but spread the wealth to the wine lovers on your holiday gift list.
The Ronchi property is based in the village of Barbaresco, with the family home and cellar perched atop the ‘cru’ vineyard of the same name (for the Italian wine experts out there, the “Ronchi” cru is bordered by “Montestefano” to the north and “Moccagatta” to the south). This amphitheater-shaped vineyard, in which the vines average 30-40 years of age, has a southeastern aspect and runs up to the border with the village of Neive to the east. The Rocca family has been in this spot for four generations, and today winemaker Giancarlo Rocca presides over about 7 hectares (16 acres). Working without any pesticides or herbicides, Rocca is also a traditionalist in the cellar, aging his wines in the large, Slavonian oak vats known as botti and bottling his wines unfined and unfiltered.
For the “Ronchi” single-vineyard bottling, fermentation is carried out in stainless steel and the wine is aged for two years in a mix of tank, large Slavonian casks, and some French oak barrels. The result is a wine of exceptional aromatic complexity and deep, brooding power: With enough air, it is plenty delicious to drink now but I think the real sweet spot is still a few years away. In the glass, it’s a luminous garnet-red with crimson and pink reflections, with an appealingly woodsy aromatic profile: scents of black cherry, red currant, and orange peel are overlain with dried rose petal, licorice, herbs, leather, potting soil, and underbrush. It is medium-plus in body and quite muscular by Barbaresco standards, so give it about an hour in a decanter before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems (and, as I noted in a previous Ronchi offer, don’t be at all surprised if this bottle is better on day two, should you find yourself with an unfinished bottle). There’s a touch of rusticity here that makes me crave food with a little fat and a little char—I’m thinking some non-spicy pork sausages and roasted potatoes off the grill, ideally enjoyed al fresco as an early evening chill starts to set in. This really is a stellar value for an eminently cellar-worthy wine. Do not miss it!
