Description
Caparzo, Brunello di Montalcino “La Casa”
If this morning’s Caparzo “La Casa” discovery got you wishing that you had some older bottles in the cellar to check out, then we have excellent news for you: we’ve secured a small lot of the 2004 vintage and it is in its prime drinking window right now! These pristine bottles came directly from the cellars of Caparzo and landed recently in their importer’s warehouse here stateside. It’s terrific, classically framed vintage in Montalcino, and the special terroir of the Montesoli hill is captured perfectly by the iconic “La Casa” bottling that Caparzo has produced for decades now. Top tier Brunello di Montalcino that is approaching twenty years of age, and has been stored for years in the very cellars where it was born, is an Italian wine lover’s dream come true. So if you’re looking for extra cheer this holiday season, look no further than this very limited stunner from Tuscany.
Single-vineyard bottlings are increasingly common in Montalcino, but it all began with Montosoli. In 1975, Caparzo’s next door neighbor Altesino produced the region’s very first “cru” bottling, and Caparzo quickly followed suit. Little wonder that a site like Montosoli caught the estates’ attention: located just northeast of the town of Montalcino, it’s a site with unusually high altitude (up to 1150 ft) for the region and limestone-laden soils. These provide a pedigreed, elegant frame around the booming fruit and herb-laden depths Sangiovese often takes on in these warm and sunny climes. Caparzo and Altesino are no longer alone in their passion for Montosoli; such benchmark producers as Le Regnaie, Cerbaie, and Canalicchio di Sopra now own land here and bottle Montosoli on its own.
Caparzo has been there from the very beginning of Brunello di Montalcino’s rise. Though viticulture and winemaking here date to the 14th century, by the 1940s, only one winery was operational. In the 1960s, however, the region went through a resurgence, as investors from points north were drawn by the stunning landscape and rare wines. Caparzo was one of the first 11 producers who established the DOCG for the region, and they watched as Montalcino blossomed over the next 30 years to include more than 200 estates.
Throughout Caparzo’s history, “La Casa” has remained its flagship cuvée. It hails from a five hectare, south-southeast facing slope in Montosoli with a high proportion of fine gravel in the soils. After rigorous hand harvesting and sorting in the vineyard, the destemmed fruit is fermented in stainless steel and then aged one year in 225L French barrels, followed by two years in 3000L oak vats. The 2004 is entering its prime, perfectly mature drinking window now. A brief decant off the sediment is recommended, then serve at cellar temperature in large Burgundy stems to unlock the heavenly perfume of aged Sangiovese: Spiced cherry liqueur, plum compote, dried roses, sage, rosemary, foraged mushrooms, and forest floor. The tannins are dusty soft, and the texture is supple and silky but lifted by bright acidity and saline minerals. For a holiday meal fit for Tuscan royalty, ask your butcher for a big, thick cut porterhouse steak and prepare a classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina. Buon appetito!
