Description
Castello Romitorio, Rosso di Montalcino
If I had it to do over again, I’d do it like Sandro Chia: buy a rundown 14th-century castle in Tuscany, renovate it, then make art and wine there. Sounds great, right? And we’re not talking just anywhere in Tuscany, either, but a secluded idyll in Montalcino, where historic wineries and iconic vineyards lurk around every corner. Lots of people dream of scenarios like Castello Romitorio, but Chia made it happen, and most important of all, his wines live up to their epic origin story.
Given that Chia’s “first” career is art, you might be expecting this Rosso di Montalcino to be a dilettante/celebrity wine with an inflated price to match, but nope, it’s just the opposite: this is authentic, affordable, pitch-perfect Montalcino Sangiovese. Working closely with the veteran Cellar Master Franco Martini, Chia does right by his little corner of Montalcino, farming sustainably and striving for real soil/varietal character rather than oak-slathered flash. Today’s ’18 is a perfect “everyday” wine—substantial without being heavy; evocative of its place of origin; full of fruit and savor in equal measure. If I were sent into exile with just one red to drink for the rest of my days, Rosso di Montalcino would probably be it!
As I’ve said before, the basic premise of Rosso di Montalcino is as appealing as it gets: Source prime Sangiovese from the same vineyards that supply your Brunello di Montalcino, but age it for a much shorter period in oak (if at all) and release it to the market the year after the vintage—at a fraction of the price of the Brunello. Who doesn’t take that deal? There’s no shortage of depth and structure in a good Rosso—you’re hardly getting shortchanged in the body department—but it’s just an easier-drinking proposition all around. I often find that, because Rossos have much less oak influence as a rule, you get a more transparent view of the Sangiovese grape and the marl/sandstone soil of Montalcino. Brunello is like spending a month there. Rosso is like a whirlwind three-day weekend!
Like all the Castello Romitorio wines, today’s ’18 features Chia’s art on the label. Born in Florence in 1946, he is a neo-expressionist painter and sculptor whose work has been exhibited all over the world—including, of course, Castello Romitorio, where he has lived and worked since he acquired the historic estate in 1984. Located on the north slope of the Montalcino hill, it contains archaeological ruins dating to ancient Etruscan times, while the restored castle is built on a Roman foundation. When Chia arrived, it was essentially a ruin, with no vineyards or winery, but it is now a showplace for both wine and Chia’s art. There’s a museum-like quality to the place, with Chia’s paintings and other artworks interspersed with antique statuary, recovered Roman columns, and other artifacts.
Sourced from the property’s younger vines, the 2018 Rosso di Montalcino aged in French and Slavonian oak barrels (no mention of the percentage of new wood) for 10 months before bottling. My inkling is that most if not all the barrels are used, because oak-derived flavors are background notes at most. The wine has a bright, energetic feel on the palate, shining a deep garnet-red in the glass and leading with notes of Morello cherry, dried cranberry, and strawberry before a second wave of dried herbs, leather, underbrush, turned earth, and dried roses leaps forth. It is medium-bodied and displays great tension and a subtle grippiness to its tannins—nothing harsh, just a little nip to let you know they’re there. Decanting never hurts, so give this 30 minutes or so before pouring into large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees and pairing it with something beefy: burgers, steak, braised short ribs, or, if beef’s not your bag, maybe a good old-fashioned ribollita—the ultimate Tuscan comfort food (just don’t serve it boiling hot!). With Sangiovese this good, it’s almost impossible to go wrong. Enjoy!
