Description
Champagne Comte Decrion, “Esprit Noble”
Today, we have so little to say but so much to offer: The bottle in front of you is the greatest price-to-quality Champagne we’ll uncover this year yet it lies in almost complete obscurity, to the point of being an enigma. So, please, do not feel cheated out of a “full writeup” because what ultimately matters here is that we’ve stumbled upon a legitimate Champagne, from the ancient Dom Pérignon village of Hautvillers, and it’s all yours for just $42.
Seeing as world-renowned Champagne is the most cost-prohibitive wine region on earth, I have no doubt this will also go down as the year’s (and probably last year’s) most refreshing and affordable “luxury buys” as well. A storied Grande Vallée terroir, a masterful blend of all three noble grapes, and the dexterous touch of the fifth-generation Gobillard family—yes, Comte Decrion’s “Esprit Noble” is one for the value books. It won’t be squaring off with Krug any time soon but this soft, creamy, delicately mineral stunner is guaranteed to please the entire Champagne-drinking spectrum—and it’s four times cheaper!
Hautvillers, as some Champagne geeks are likely aware, is famous for being the home of the Abbey of Saint-Pierre d’Hautvillers, where the Benedictine Monk Pierre Pérignon—yes, “Dom” Pérignon—worked as a winemaker. The (former) abbey’s buildings are today owned by Moët & Chandon, while the roughly 300 hectares of vineyards in Hautvillers include parcels prized by many of the big-name houses, including Jacquesson, Louis Roederer, and Veuve Clicquot. Vineyards on this northern bank of the Marne River are blessed with near-full southern exposures, ensuring optimal ripeness for all three of the Champagne grapes, although the Vallée de la Marne is said to be especially hospitable to Pinot Meunier—which is what leads “Esprit Noble.”
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The Champagne Comte Decrion label was created by the fifth-generation JM Gobillard family, who began producing this after the acquisition of another local producer, Champagne Trouillard, in 2006. Most of the raw material for “Esprit Noble” comes from vines rooted in clay and chalk within Hautvillers. Half of the cuvée is Meunier and the other is a mix of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The grapes fermented varietally separate in stainless steel tanks and after blending, the resulting wine was transferred into bottle for 15 months of maturation.
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Whenever you’re presented with a bonafide champagne bursting with energy and a creamy core of fruit, you should always buy a bottle. When it’s $42, you should always buy everything you can. Don’t get me wrong, there are droves of $40-something champagne out there but finding one with a divine level of refreshment and seamless texture is like locating a needle in a field of haystacks. “Esprit Noble” bubbles with a frothy mousse in the glass and instantly emits soft, high-toned notes of apple blossoms, white peach, pineapple core, melon peel, Meyer lemon, acacia, honeysuckle, toasted hazelnut, and wet stone. Each mouthwatering sip delivers beautiful precision and refreshing lift to the vibrant orchard fruits before revealing a delicate trail of crushed minerals. It’s an amazing feat for the price, one that will keep delivering tremendous pleasure over the next 2-3 years. Enjoy chilled, around 45-50 degrees, in flared tulips or all-purpose stems. Cheers!
