Description
Champagne Moussé, “Anecdote — Les Deux Lieux-Dits”
Today’s remarkably singular, small-production blanc de blancs is only made possible via an anomalous producer and terroir: Champagne Moussé Fils, in the hamlet of Cuisles. Nestled just north of the Marne River, Cuisles has long been Pinot Meunier country because of its green clay (illite) which cannot be found anywhere else in Champagne. Its crystalline composition is said to bring out the greatest purities of the variety, but Moussé said why not Chardonnay? So, decades ago, they replanted a vineyard to Chardonnay and “Anecdote” became the first-ever blanc de blancs from Cuisles.
Today’s 2017 “Les Deux Lieux-Dits,” however, further bends the established order by utilizing two parcels, not one: “Les Varosses” in Cuisles and “Les Terres Rouge” in neighboring Jonquery. The unfortunate news is that even with an additional site to pull from, this is still vinified in tiny quantities, and always will be, too. Ultimately, it’s a sheer delight for those who want to mix up their Champagne rotation—not just for its novelty but for its remarkable purity, surging energy, and laser-sharp precision. Pro tip: I recommend enjoying over 3-4 hours to experience its full range of dynamic textures and flavors.
Moussé Fils has built its reputation on Cuisles Pinot Meunier from the start, which accounts for 80% of the estate’s plantings across nine and a half hectares, but today’s unique cuvée checks in with all Chardonnay. In our opinion, they’re more than qualified to experiment: The Moussés have been growers here for 12 generations, and winemakers for four. In 1923, Eugène Moussé founded the estate that is today run by his great-grandson Cédric. Minimizing environmental impact is a top priority in Moussé’s modern era. Guided by the principles of “lutte raisonnée,” Cédric practices organic viticulture using cover crops, providing nutrients to the vines via herbal infusions, avoiding pesticides, and limiting doses of copper and other heavy metal treatments. Furthermore, in 2012, Cédric completed construction on a new winery built to maximize sustainability. Solar panels power several buildings and the cellar’s temperature is moderated by geothermal energy. Water for irrigation is provided by an underground spring as well!
In the cellar, the purity of the fruit takes center stage. Nearly all of Moussé’s wines are fermented and aged in stainless steel, and dosages are kept to a minimum, although the wines do undergo malolactic fermentation to lend creamier textures. This 2017 “Anecdote” aged for 36 months, received a dosage of 1.5 grams, and was bottled unfined.
This crisp, intense, and complex blanc de blancs is golden yellow in the glass with light green hues and a fine, creamy mousse. Subtle oxidative aromas of toasted hazelnut and almond complement the wine’s white floral perfume and delicate flavors of lemon, golden apple, and yuzu. The laser-sharp acidity, tinged with saline, petrichor, and mineral character, is the real star of the show in this lively Champagne, which has much in common with great Côte-de-Beaune Chardonnay. Serve it now or over the next 3-5 years, at 50-55 degrees, in large Burgundy stems to maximize its fine, elegant aromatics. You could go with a pairing as simple as sashimi—or get creative with this recipe that combines the savory, umami notes of Japanese cuisine with the winning combination of seafood and pasta.
