Description
Champagne Paul Déthune, Grand Cru Brut Rosé
My love for Egly-Ouriet is no secret, but now that their rosé is regularly fetching $150-$175, smart money must choose today’s freshly-disgorged $60 Grand Cru rosé every time. I assure you our longtime obsession with Champagne Paul Déthune isn’t clouding my judgment: This extraordinary, Pinot-driven rosé deserves every bit of praise because it delivers Egly-Ouriet depth, balance, and power for nearly two-thirds less.
Maybe this similarity in profile lies in the fact that Déthune sources from the same hillside in Ambonnay, a hallowed Grand Cru site that’s arguably home to the top Pinot Noir in all of Champagne. Or perhaps it’s because they farm organically. Or ferment in French oak. Or use a staggering amount of decades-old reserve wine to add unrivaled complexity and texture. It’s all of those things, and still, they don’t charge remotely close to what the market demands. NOTE: Since Déthune is committed to upholding the “micro” in their micro-production, purchases must be limited to six bottles per person.
The Déthunes have been farming and crafting Champagne in the Grand Cru village of Ambonnay since 1889, but their winemaking lineage can be traced as far back as 1610. Today, Pierre Déthune and his wife, Sophie, tend to seven hectares (that’s it!) of organically farmed vines throughout Ambonnay. They are adamant about respecting nature: organic fertilizers are used, cover crops are planted, solar panels have been installed, and a rainwater collection system has been implemented, making them one of Champagne’s leading champions of sustainability. The Déthune’s life commitment to intricate work—from natural farming of Grand Cru vines in Ambonnay to a methodically traditional approach in the winery—is on full display in each bottle of their handcrafted wine.
Déthune’s Grand Cru Brut Rosé is a blend of 80% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay from their organically farmed vines in Grand Cru Ambonnay. It is here that Pinot Noir reveals its most intense expression, delivering signature minerality and terroir that translates to opulent, perfectly balanced Champagnes. Their grapes were hand-harvested at ripe levels and fermented, both alcoholic and malolactic, in French oak. Afterward, nearly 50% of older reserve wine—a perpetual, 40-vintage-blend that matures in large oak tuns—was married with the base vintage. Upon bottling, the wine evolved in Déthune’s hand-carved, 17th-century chalk for several years before disgorgement in early 2022. Instead of adding a standard dosage consisting of beet sugar, Pierre uses MCR, or moût concentré rectifié, which is super-concentrated grape must reduced down to its base sugars. Although rarely found in Champagne, several growers are now using it with the mindset that it creates a more neutral and consistent sweetener.
If you want to enjoy this stellar Grand Cru rosé at its best, serve in flared tulips or all-purpose stems to experience the vast array of complexities. I also like allowing the bubbles to slowly dissipate in a glass over 15-20 minutes; after the lion’s share of carbonation leave the wine, the expression is almost reminiscent of a great bottle of Burgundy. As it evolves, you’ll begin losing yourself in deeply pronounced aromas of bright red cherry, watermelon, apple skin, pomegranate seeds, wild strawberry, and a constant high note of citrus alongside chalk, crushed shells, vanilla bean, wildflowers, brioche, and dried herbs. I’m convinced there isn’t a single champagne connoisseur who could dislike this rosé. It’s so inviting and broadly layered, rich yet deeply refreshing—it’s perfection. This can be enjoyed now and often, or held back for another 2-3 years. The choice is yours, just know that a wonderful Grand Cru experience awaits you whenever the cork is pulled. Cheers!
