Description
Champagne Pehu-Simonet, Grand Cru “Fins Lieux N°1” Blanc de Noirs
Ever since uncovering Pehu-Simonet’s rare “Fins Lieux” series two years ago, our entire team has been spellbound: Produced in the smallest of quantities, these vintage-dated, terroir-driven Champagnes highlight the intricacies of specific Grand Cru parcels. And, by a blowout margin, the standout has been their 2012 “Fins Lieux No. 1,” a barrel-fermented, six-years-aged Pinot Noir coming from an organically farmed lieu-dit in Grand Cru Verzenay. When we first offered it 14 months ago, it was a vinous Champagne filled with electrifying, multi-dimensional waves and a long-lasting mineral imprint. To be honest, we did not anticipate seeing, let alone tasting, another bottle—until last month, when Pehu-Simonet’s importer informed us a final, albeit much-smaller, batch had arrived.
We greedily asked to taste it again, and although it’s the same wine, we discovered an entirely different breed after pulling the cork. Now with 2.5 years of post-disgorgement aging under its belt, the fascinating “Maillard reaction” (more on that in the tasting notes) has transformed this into a savory, toasty, smoky tour de force. Plus, this is from the soon-to-be-legendary 2012 vintage, so its value and flavor profile will only continue expanding. Whether you tasted this rare Grand Cru gem last year, or will be experiencing it for the very first time, trust me when I say (1) it is a wildly mesmerizing sensory experience and (2) this is your last chance to try it. Up to six bottles per person.
Fourth-generation David Pehu of Pehu-Simonet has given his estate a makeover in recent years that has rocketed it up the pecking order of elite, terroir-specific Champagne. The Pehu family, however, has been crafting Champagne since the early 1900s, proven by old ‘Veuve Pehu’ labels that are on proud display at the estate. When David’s parents formed Pehu-Simonet in the 1970s, it also came with a handful of premier vines from his mother’s side. This combination seemed to pave a clear path for him: Since 1988, David has been at the winemaking helm.
Today, David farms just 7.5 hectares, six of which are located in Grand Cru villages. As for the other 1.5 hectares? The fruit is sold, as David only wishes to bottle wines containing the very best fruit. Today’s Blanc de Noir is his special 100% Pinot Noir bottling from the Grand Cru village of Verzenay. More specifically, it hails from “Les Perthois,” an organically farmed parcel that hugs the border of Verzy. A trained Burgundy enologist, David used secondhand Burgundy barrels (and some stainless steel) for a slow, cool vinification. Afterward, the wine was transferred into bottle where it aged on its lees for over six years until disgorgement in January of 2019. Only 1.5 grams of sugar were added as a dosage.
Let’s start with a few guidelines because if you treat “Fins Lieux N°1” well, it’ll return the favor tenfold. Firstly, no cylindrical stems—this Grand Cru Pinot needs to breathe! An all-purpose stem is ideal here, but you can certainly experiment with Burgundy stems too. Secondly, keep the drinking temperature around 50-55 degrees, and thirdly, try to extend your bottle as long as possible. Over the course of dinner, it changed so much for me and, frankly, I was a bit upset that I didn’t save any for the following day. That’s the power of the 2012 vintage and a perfectly sculpted Champagne.
Onto the Maillard reaction. Simply put, this is a complex series of molecular interactions between sugar and proteins that result in the evolution of flavors over time. It’s more common and quicker in meats and baking (think seared steak and brioche bun) due to higher temperatures, but it can occur in Champagne too! It can only happen in Champagnes that have been disgorged for a while and dosed with sugar. Today’s wine has been disgorged for well over two years now, and was given a 1.5-gram dosage at the beginning, so this combination has resulted in a beautiful evolution of nuanced flavors in the form of brioche, toasted pastry, caramel, smoke, vanilla bean, and other exotic spices. Furthermore, it also bursts with aromas of dried plum, red apple, redcurrant, Rainier cherry, apricot, crushed chalk, red flowers, and damp herbs. On the palate, the thundering intensity of Grand Cru Verzenay is still on full display: The Pinot Noir releases dense, highly energized red fruit that melds with a fierce backbone of crushed minerals and laser-beam acidity. It’s the same wine you loved last year, just now with added layers of savory intensity, toastiness, and pronounced spice. Enjoy!
