Description
Château Cabrières, Châteauneuf-du-Pape
Question: Where are you going to find a flawlessly stored 1985 Châteauneuf-du-Pape from a respected name under $100? Answer: Only here. Today’s 37-year-old transcendental red is a vivid snapshot of über-savory, old-school Châteaneuf!
Admittedly, I practice extreme caution when it comes to CdP these days because many have succumbed to the high-octane, overly ripe formula that fuels high scores. Those wines are not for me, and I also have a genuine concern about their ability to age. Château Cabrières doesn’t have that problem, as evidenced by today’s earthy, tertiary-flavored gem—for further proof, I’ve even tasted their sublime ’71. But the center of attention today is their 1985, and it’s everything one craves in an old, rustic, perfectly preserved French red, all for the going price of many current-release Châteauneufs. For those wondering where this small parcel came from: It was extracted from Cabrières’ cellar this summer and it has just arrived, temp-controlled the whole way, at our warehouse. Take up to four bottles and treat each one with the veneration it deserves!
Based on antique discoveries at the estate and era-specific architectural designs, it’s safe to assume Château Cabrières was first built somewhere around the 13th or 14th century! As for contemporary times, three generations of the Arnaud family have served as the custodians of this historic property. All of their crop was sold off to négociants up until 1955, when first-generation Louis Arnaud decided to produce, bottle, and sell their own wine. Since then, their Châteauneuf-du-Pape holdings have grown to a respectable 20 hectares which contain all authorized grape varieties.
Averaging 300 days of sun and a strong “mistral” that blows for 120, CdP enjoys a fascinating push-pull of heat and cooling wind that makes it among the most fascinating climates on earth. Add on its rich diversity of soils and famed round stones (galets) and it becomes quite clear why this famous terroir was France’s first-ever appellation. Another way to understand this would be to open a bottle of today’s “Cuvée Tradition.”
The Arnauds practice sustainable farming, harvest is always manual, and yields are kept shockingly low to ensure only the best grapes make it to the cellar. A month-long fermentation is carried out separately, both by grape variety and parcel, and aging occurs in French barrels for 12 months. This 1985 relies heavily on Grenache (50%), substantial portions of Syrah and Mourvèdre, and a touch of Cinsault to provide a brilliant, savory snapshot of traditional Châteauneuf-du-Pape Rouge.
After carefully opening with an ah-so, I recommend slowly pouring Cabrières’ 1985 Châteauneuf into Bordeaux stems and allowing it to breathe for 5-10 minutes in your glass. I’m sure each experience will slightly vary for everyone so check in on this wine repeatedly to track its evolution (our bottle showed best in the first 90 minutes of being opened). With a hazy brick-orange hue, this mature red delivers notes of dried plums and cherry, redcurrant, sous bois, button mushroom, teriyaki, iron, dried herbs, menthol, dried rose, barnyard, and exotic spice. The palate is savory and herbal with generous swells of umami and the last vestiges of berry fruit peaking through. It’s a fascinating snapshot into classic Châteauneuf with substantial age. Enjoy your bottles now until 2025.
