Description
Château du Petit Thouars, Touraine “L’Amiral”
For those who think a $39 bottle of wine can’t qualify as a collectible, today’s powerful and incredibly age-worthy “prestige cuvée” from 16th-century Château du Petit Thouars proves otherwise. Produced only in exceptional vintages from the estate’s oldest/finest vines and aged in barriques for 2+ years, “L’Amiral” is among the most resolutely classic, complex, and deeply aromatic Cabernet Franc treasures in French wine. And if it’s historical intrigue and authenticity you seek, today’s landmark estate holds a history so rich, its heirlooms and artifacts could fill out the entire Smithsonian:
Surrounded by vines and a crumbling stone wall is an imposing 500-year-old limestone castle that has housed no less than 12 generations of the Petit Thouars family! And, for reasons unbeknownst to me, their prices have remained remarkably approachable despite what many Loire contemporaries are now charging for their (oft-inferior) wines. It’s amazing: Everything one could possibly ask for in a traditional Chinon Cabernet France—perfume, balance, palpable terroir, energy—is here in spades. Find some room for a case if you can because this bulletproof investment will keep getting better for many years to come.
I constantly find myself recommending Cabernet Franc to people looking for an alternative to top Cru Beaujolais, Red Burgundy, Northern Rhône, or any wine that sublimely balances brilliant fruit with elegant mineral structure. And nowhere does Cabernet Franc shine as a solo act quite like historic Chinon in the Loire Valley, especially when the vines are old and the wine-producing estate is steeped in centuries of tradition. Constructed as a hunting lodge in the early 1500s and home to the Petit Thouars family since 1636, this breathtaking château is among the Loire’s most historic properties. Today, it is home to 12th-generation Sebastién du Petit Thouars and his family, who oversee this sprawling estate with great aplomb.
The family waits for a sensational vintage before giving “L’Amiral” the greenlight. Only then do they hand-harvest the best fruit from their oldest sustainably farmed vines surrounding the old stone wall of their estate. In their limestone cellar/cave, which was the main source of building material for their ancient château, the grapes are 100% de-stemmed. Interestingly, over two-thirds of the cuvée comes from precious free-run juice (the weight of the grapes above acts as a natural press). The juice then ferments spontaneously in stainless steel tank before being racked off its fine lees and transferred into thrice-used French oak, purchased from Bordeaux, for no less than 24 months. It is bottled without fining. Note that while today’s label displays the broader “Touraine” appellation it is indeed from Chinon. Moving forward, Petit Thouars will utilize the Chinon designation for their cuvées.
Decant this stunner for 45 minutes, serve in Bordeaux stems, and prepare for an explosion of classic Chinon aromatics: crunchy berry fruit, ripe cherries, rose stem, tobacco, petrichor, crushed rock, damp herbs, underbrush, leather, and wisps of smoke. The palate is muscular, tannic, and broad with a strong underpinning of soil and iron that frame the surges of high-toned fruit and spice. I’ll end with a quote from their trusted importer: “It is a testament to the estate’s commitment to classicism that they produce such a bold, full-throttle wine as this—one which fits beautifully within our portfolio alongside other such beloved outliers as Chateau Pradeaux in Bandol, Domaine Levet in Cote-Rotie, and Paolo Bea in Montefalco.” Now that’s good company to be in! Enjoy now and over the next 10 years. Cheers!
