Description
Conti, Boca
Remember the 2018 Conti Boca offer from a month ago—when I said these spectacular and deeply stimulating Alpine Nebbiolos have the stuffing to age for decades? Well, today’s 1985 library release is the knee-weakening, distressingly limited proof. We only have a few dozen bottles to share, and while they’re most certainly categorized as “expensive,” they will have no problem matching up against any 30+-year-old Piedmont bottling.
For the uninitiated, a bottle of Boca Nebbiolo vinified at Conti remains some of the most expressive, infinitely intriguing, and limited wine in this resurgent corner of Italy—with a heavy emphasis on limited. They only farm a few hectares of vines and I’ve personally seen the cramped confines of their tiny cellar, which makes it all the more shocking/impressive that any of these ’85 beauties remain. Maximum of two bottles per person. I doubt we’ll ever lay eyes on these ancient library releases again…
NOTE: As always, provenance is guaranteed. This microscopic parcel left Conti’s cellar for the very first time earlier this year.
Once part of the epicenter of Nebbiolo production, the microscopic, high-altitude haven of Boca is one of the smallest wine regions of our times. It became largely abandoned after the Second World War and almost fell into complete oblivion by the ‘90s, but a few steadfast winemakers, Conti included, dug in their heels and persevered. Today, the region is in the middle of an explosive and deeply rewarding renaissance, yet the wines remain ridiculously hard to track down. The village of Boca is made up of only a handful of hectares split between a couple of dozen producers. Like Barolo 90 minutes to the south, the Nebbiolo grape reigns supreme here and soils are dominated by limestone and clay.
However, there are some small details that set Boca, and especially the wines of the Conti family, apart from the pack. First, the blending varieties Vespolina and Uva Rara play a quiet but masterful supporting role behind Nebbiolo in today’s wine. Next, if you look closely while walking the Conti vineyards, you’ll notice some of the most exotic-looking soil ever planted to Nebbiolo. Their tiny holdings are full of porphyry and crystals held together by reddish sand and clay. The soil literally twinkles in the sunlight and its unique mineral composition is evident in every sip.
The Conti sisters understand that such unique terroir and their combined years of perfecting organic and biodynamic practices (herbicides have never been introduced to their vines) means they need not fuss too much in the cellar. There is very little in the way of technology or modern gadgetry at Conti. The minuscule amount of juice produced from their vineyards is fermented in a stainless steel tank. There are twice-daily punch-downs during fermentation and after malolactic fermentation is complete, the wine is transferred to old, handmade, Slavonian oak botti. It rests here for a minimum of three years before bottling and sees further maturation before exiting the cellar doors. This parcel of ’85 obviously stayed behind much longer: It was only just released from their cellar this year.
When serving, make sure the bottle is around 60 degrees and that your Burgundy stems are well-polished. My cork came out just fine without the use of an ah-so or Durand, but I’d still suggest using one for a bottle of this antiquity. So how does Conti’s 37-year-old Boca taste? Not dissimilar to some of the ancient Burgundies and Riojas we’ve doled out over the years. Still, there is a distinctiveness to this perfectly stored Nebbiolo: Decades of evolution have smoothed out the tannins while beautifully preserving the acidity. You can expect dried-fruit aromas of cherry, currant, and red plum along with loose tobacco, antique wood, roasted espresso, varnish, and light herbal components. Each sip is soft-spoken yet sneakily persistent, finishing with a savory mélange of earth, spice, and herbs. It’s a vino da meditazione of the highest order that I find too delicate/ethereal to pair with food. I suggest enjoying your bottles within the first 2-3 hours. Cheers.
