Description
Daniel Bouland, Morgon Bellevue “Sable”
When the time comes to choose a Cru Beaujolais with more muscle and longevity, Morgon is the place to look. Within the village of Morgon is a collection of historically important vineyard sites, or lieux-dits, two of which—“Corcelette” and “Bellevue”—include the immensely talented Daniel Bouland among their owners. Today’s distinctive label will be instantly recognizable to many, not just because Bouland is an all-time SommSelect favorite but because he’s widely recognized as a best-in-class producer.
It starts with very old vines, which in Bouland’s parcel of “Bellevue” exceed 60 years of age and produce a Morgon that is second to none in terms of structure, fruit concentration, and mineral depth. Bouland may lack the notoriety of Morgon legends like Jean Foillard or Marcel Lapierre, but each successive vintage finds him ascending to the very top rank—and when it comes to “Bellevue,” Bouland’s are the top of the top. He actually bottles two wines from this high-altitude site, labeling them by soil type (this one from a parcel with more sand, or sable) and delivering one of the most profound, age-worthy Morgons in the entire appellation. There’s no shortage of competition in Morgon, so when I say this is a best-in-class wine, I don’t do so lightly. This is Cru Beaujolais with an extra gear, a wine that showcases everything this terroir, and the Gamay grape, are capable of—and we’re not the only ones who’ve noticed. Consistent critical acclaim has made all of Bouland’s wines harder and harder to acquire. I’m shocked, but delighted, that it can still be had at such a modest price!
Daniel Bouland is a somewhat reticent, self-deprecating grower but if you approach him with a curious spirit regarding his wines, he’s visibly energized. He’s a one-man shop with no full-time employees and no website. It’s just him and his cherished old-vine parcels meticulously nurtured with his own gifted hands. If you’ve followed our Cru Beaujolais joyride over the last five years, you’re already acquainted with Bouland and his wines, but if today is your first encounter, you couldn’t ask for a better introduction than the 2018 Bellevue “Sable.” It is exuberant, aromatic, and lavishly fruited, yet at the same time, it has the mineral-laced structure to handle a lengthy cellar stay.
The majority of Daniel Bouland’s old bush vines are in the Morgon sub-zone of Corcelette, in the hilly Haut-Morgon to the northwest of the appellation. Within this area there are a number of lieux-dits that Bouland now bottles separately, of which “Bellevue” is one. After experimenting with different ways of designating his various terroirs—including the use of barrel numbers on labels—Bouland has landed on a much clearer solution. Beginning with this 2018 vintage, he simply distinguishes between “Cailloux” (stony soil) and “Sable’” (sandy soil) on the label. Today’s wine, the “Sable,” comes from a southeast-facing, gently sloped plot on sandy soil, strewn with schist over deep granite with vines averaging 60 years of age.
The winemaking is traditionally simple by design. All of Bouland’s cuvées undergo natural, 100% whole-bunch fermentation in the classic ‘semi-carbonic’ method. Fermentation and aging occur in large-format neutral oak barrels and glazed concrete tanks. All the wines are bottled without fining and receive only a light filtration. In 2018, Bouland’s harvest got an early start to preserve freshness in his organically grown grapes before they hit the cellar. With his “structure-first” mindset, he raised this ’18 in fiberglass and stainless steel tanks to keep his abundantly ripe fruit contained and precise. Once again, reflecting Bouland’s signature, the finished wine operates on three well-delineated layers: An airy top register of florals and flint-smoke, the middle layer flush with refined red fruit, and a vividly mineral structure at the low register. Few master winemakers in Beaujolais craft an old-fashioned expression of this elegance and class.
This 2018 Morgon Bellevue “Sable” displays a dark ruby-red core with pink/magenta highlights on the rim. Super-charged aromas fuel the bouquet of potpourri, orange peel, fresh thyme, sweet cranberry, turned soil, and hints of licorice and sweet smoke. On the dense palate, the wine delivers plush, sappy fruit alongside already integrated tannins and deep flavors of spicy blue and red fruits with touches of nuanced herbs, wildflowers, and exotic spice. The finish is equally deep and detailed with refreshing grip and gorgeous, granitic minerality. Although enormously pleasurable at this alluring, youthful stage, monumental Morgon like this can withstand a cellaring for 10+ years. I strongly recommend loading up enough to satisfy both scenarios, especially considering the seemingly endless, often steep, price hikes for most wines from other historically pedigreed regions across the globe. And if it begs enjoyment sooner than later, be sure to give the wine a lively decant of 30 minutes to buff out the edges and release its energy. Serve at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems and consider a classic pairing of pan-roasted duck breast with onions and crisp pancetta. Cheers!
