Description
Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Chablis 1er Cru “Vaillon”
Defaix’s family has been producing wine in and around this
region since the 1500s. Defaix works almost exclusively with Chardonnay and his
ample collection of Premier Cru vineyards are farmed entirely by hand and
fertilized with natural compost and manure. It’s an ancient and devoutly
traditional operation in the vines. It’s also worth mentioning that his
~50-year-old “Vaillon” holdings lie in the heart of the original Premier Cru
parcel, before the vineyard was expanded to include other microclimates. Still,
I’d say that the most exciting and unique aspect of this property is what
happens in the cellar. Over the last handful of centuries, the Defaix family
has amassed a sprawling collection of Premier Cru acreage in Chablis—yet very
little of the fruit it produces ends up in wine with a Defaix label! With 70+
acres of vines in the region, Daniel-Etienne oversees a ruthless triage
(sorting) every harvest that banishes all but the finest, most pristine grapes
to the négociant (merchant) market. Only a minuscule amount of peak-quality
product remains for fermentation in the Defaix cellar.
Unlike so many other older white Burgundies in the market,
there is no premature oxidation, no watery finish, and zero cracks in its
foundation. As usual, it’s a bonafide masterpiece that will continue evolving
for many years to come. In the glass, it reveals star-bright aromatics in the
form of crushed yellow apple, pineapple core, salt-preserved Meyer lemon, lime
blossoms, quince, crushed almonds, lees, honeysuckle, gardenia, pulverized
chalk, seaspray, and bergamot orange zest. It’s beautifully layered palate is
medium-bodied and intensely mouthwatering, thanks to surging waves of
crushed-stone minerality.
