Description
Domaine aux Moines, Savennières Roche-aux-Moines
Sommeliers in training, at any level, always keep a handful of best-in-class, region-defining producers at the front of their minds. Examples include Hermitage from Chave and Guigal; Pomerol from Pétrus and Lafleur; Bandol from Tempier and Pradeaux; and Savennières from Nicolas Joly and Domaine aux Moines. Of course, this is an incomplete list but my point is this: These benchmark producers are champions of their regions, crafting inimitable wines from unique terroirs.
As for Domaine aux Moines, they are the de facto rulers of their miniature “Roche-aux-Moines” kingdom, an ancient schistous cru that not only holds its own appellation status but also stands adjacent to Joly’s world-famous “Coulée de Serrant.” Most incredible of all, roughly half of the 20 planted hectares here are owned by Domaine aux Moines, and in spite of their stellar track record of being a sommelier cult favorite, their pricing has always remained modest. For $49, this is Certified Organic Chenin Blanc at its most dry, intense, and profoundly textured, one that undoubtedly competes with—and ages alongside—the world’s greatest white wines. Our supplies won’t last long but these wines will: 2040 and beyond is not out of the question!
Roche-aux-Moines is a single-vineyard sub-appellation of the Savennières AOC that nearly borders Nicolas Joly’s famous Coulée de Serrant monopole. This “sacred” appellation has been under vine since the monks of Abbaye Saint-Nicolas broke ground in 1130 and the 22 or so hectares currently under vine today are farmed by a baker’s dozen of producers. Domaine aux Moines holds the lion’s share. The estate itself was first built in 1768 and after passing through several hands throughout the centuries, Madame Monique Laroche and her husband purchased it outright in 1981. Today, it is still run by Monique, along with her daughter, Tessa, who joined the team in 1990.
Domaine aux Moines sits at the highest point in Roche-aux-Moines and therefore is the literal standout of the appellation. With a high presence of schistous and volcanic soils, their vineyard real estate is considered some of the best in the appellation. With roughly 10 hectares of vines planted directly around the estate, the Laroches can carefully tend to their Certified Organic grapes at any time, and they need the attention! A tough climate, coupled with some parcels that are pushing past 80 years old, means yields here can be very low: 30 hectoliters per hectare (much less than Grand Cru white Burgundy) is common, but in some years it can drop to the teens.
Their fanatical devotion to meticulous sorting also plays into the low yields: At harvest, picking ripe, pristine grapes is pivotal for this mother-daughter team, so they comb through the vineyard 5-6 times, handpicking and sorting only the best grapes. In the winery, everything is super-traditional, with a hands-off, laissez-faire approach: Fermentation is spontaneous and aging occurs in a combination of stainless steel tanks (70%) and mostly used French barrels sized at 220 and 400 liters.
This bone-dry Chenin Blanc shines a brilliant yellow-gold and releases aromatics that could only come from the schist and volcanic soils of Savennières. It epitomizes “site-specificity” and ageability—something all white wine lovers should experience. The nose floods the senses with laser-sharp aromas of Bosc pear, green apple, pineapple core, lime blossoms, candied lemon peel, struck flint, crushed wet rock, bruised yellow peach, tangerine peel, honeysuckle, and lees. The palate is deeply textured and bristling with high acid, tense energy, and a mineral tang that loosens up with air so please decant for 45 minutes before service in Burgundy stems. Like we did, monitor its evolution over several hours and well into day two. Enjoy your other bottles over the next 10-20 years, and don’t be afraid to cellar them beyond that either!
