Description
Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Blanchots Dessus”
Considered one of the linchpins of premium Burgundy, one would think the Darviot-Perrin name stretched for centuries. However, Didier Darviot didn’t release his first commercial vintage until 1989. So why, then, is there so much buzz around the domaine? Because Didier learned his craft alongside his legendary father-in-law, Pierre Perrin, who also bestowed upon him a trove of old heirloom vines throughout the Côte de Beaune. It did not take long to make a name for himself, and by the 21st century, the wines were on the radar of every Burgundy insider. After retiring in 2017, Didier searched high and low for a successor and two years later, he landed on one that was close to home—his son, Pierre-Antonin, who left his own career to carry on the family business. In that short time, he’s transitioned into full-on biodynamics.
“Les Blanchots Dessus” is one of those head-scratching, why-isn’t-this-Grand-Cru vineyards that is wedged between Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, and Le Montrachet. In fact, many locals and critics consider it equal in status. Darviot-Perrin owns just 0.3 hectares here and their vines, rooted in a gravelly limestone, are now over 50 years old. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed, fermented using ambient yeasts, and the resulting wine is aged in 25% new Allier oak barrels for 12 months. This is followed by six additional months in stainless steel tank before the wines are bottled. Roughly 150 cases were produced.
Burghound describes this 2017 release as follows: “Here the beautifully layered if restrained nose is at once cool but ripe with its combination of lemon, apple, spice and petrol scents. There is exceptionally good richness to the full-bodied flavors that possess a caressing and highly seductive mouth feel—yet make no mistake, this is one very powerful wine that also reflects some youthful austerity on the firm, serious and built-to-age finale.” I’m of two minds as to when to drink this beauty: On the one hand, this will age 10-15 years longer, but on the other hand, a 90-minute decant before service will provide you thrills right now. Either way, serve this in large Burgundy stems and let the temperature come up to about 50-55 degrees for best results.
