Description
Domaine Darviot-Perrin, Meursault “Clos de la Velle”
Considered one of the linchpins of premium Burgundy, one would think the Darviot-Perrin name stretched for centuries. However, Didier Darviot didn’t release his first commercial vintage until 1989. So why, then, is there so much buzz around the domaine? Because Didier learned his craft alongside his legendary father-in-law, Pierre Perrin, who also bestowed upon him a trove of old heirloom vines throughout the Côte de Beaune. It did not take long to make a name for himself, and by the 21st century, the wines were on the radar of every Burgundy insider. After retiring in 2017, Didier searched high and low for a successor and two years later, he landed on one that was close to home—his son, Pierre-Antonin, who left his own career to carry on the family business. In that short time, he’s transitioned into full-on biodynamics.
“Clos de la Velle” is a walled, half-hectare vineyard that lies at the eastern edge of Meursault. Owned entirely by Darviot-Perrin, this special site was first planted in the mid-1900s and produces roughly 250 cases per year. The grapes are whole-cluster pressed, fermented using ambient yeasts, and the resulting wine is aged in 25% new Allier oak barrels for 12 months. This is followed by six additional months in stainless steel tank before the wines are bottled.
Jancis Robinson called this 2017 “lively and fresh with lemon-sherbet notes,” and also noted that it had “good balance and vivacity.” I would imagine if you were deciding between which of your cuvées to open in the near term, this would be the one. Decant 45 minutes, serve in large Burgundy stems, and let the temperature come up to about 50-55 degrees for best results.
