Description
Domaine de Gouye, Saint-Joseph “Vieilles Vignes”
I can’t believe I’m saying this but Philippe Desbos’ Domaine de Gouye is still an “under the radar” property in Saint-Joseph. If you love Northern Rhône Syrah, and appreciate a wine that drinks like Hermitage at a Saint-Joseph price, then Domaine de Gouye should be a recurring name in your household if you’ve subscribed to SommSelect for any length of time.
Since my first taste of Desbos’ soulful, hand-crafted wines—and especially after visiting the estate a few years ago—we’ve been fervent supporters. We’ve offered multiple vintages of this heart-stopping old-vine Saint-Joseph, which never fails to blow us away, and yet the wine doesn’t exactly fly out of our warehouse. I just don’t get it. If we were in a restaurant and you told me you were a French Syrah aficionado, I’d do everything I could to get this in your glass. How do I do that in words? I’ve looked at past offers—there’s no shortage of superlatives and calls to action. So, I’ll just say it again and hope that you hear me this time: Domaine de Gouye shouldn’t just be on your radar, it should be blinking or beeping or whatever radars do to signal that the target has been found!
Philippe Desbos is the most genuine of genuine articles. Probably the most modern equipment he has are the mechanical winches he uses for plowing some of his steepest parcels, which sit high above the Rhône in the renowned village of Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. This is one of a handful of spots that elevate the supposedly “lesser” Saint-Joseph appellation to a level on par with Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage. For one thing, all Saint-Joseph is not created equal: The appellation was extended to nearly 40 miles in length in 1969, causing total vineyard acreage to jump from 240 to 2,900 overnight. The variability of the region’s vineyards is significant. But, as Eric Asimov noted in the New York Times, Saint-Jean-de-Muzols is one of the ‘original’ villages of the Saint-Joseph AOC, along with a handful of others clustered on the west side of the Rhône opposite Tain l’Hermitage. This is prime territory for the best expressions of Syrah, thanks to high elevations and soils that are largely granitic with patches of limestone—far superior to the clayey soils found at the base of the hills.
Desbos’ Saint-Joseph comes from a south-facing, seven-acre plot of 50-year-old vines at about 1,000 feet elevation. With the help of a plow horse (and those winches), they till the vineyard rows and follow strict sustainable practices until harvesting by hand. After grapes are hand-harvested, sorted, and foot-trod, they’re transferred to ancient wood and block press. Indigenous yeasts trigger a whole-cluster fermentation and then the wine is rested in old, neutral French barrels for 16 months. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered, and the result is reliably stunning, especially at this price.
This 2019 is a deep ruby-black in the glass, with hints of magenta at the rim. It is densely packed with aroma and flavor, from black raspberry, boysenberry, red and black cherry, and licorice to wild herbs, warm spices, roasted meat, cracked pepper, coffee grounds, and leather. It is medium-plus in body, moving towards full, with loads of freshness keeping it on the bright side, and while there’s structure for 10-15 years of aging, it drinks beautifully right now, too. Decant it 30-60 minutes before serving in large Bordeaux stems at 60 degrees. It is rich, dark, meaty, and therefore requires the same of any dish you pair with it. We published the attached recipe the last time we offered the “Vieilles Vignes” bottling, and I know I wouldn’t mind cooking it again. Enjoy!
