Description
Domaine de Rimauresq, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé Rosé
French and other imported rosés from the 2020 vintage landed on our shores later than usual this year, and if there’s one arrival we were especially anxious about, it’d be that of Domaine de Rimauresq’s inimitable Cru Classé. This marks the third vintage in a row we’ve offered, and the reason couldn’t be simpler: It’s one of the top values in true-blue Provençal rosé.
Rimauresq is one of a handful of estates in the Côtes de Provence designated Cru Classé (“classified growth”), with more than a century of elite rosé production behind it, and after tasting this latest arrival, I’m reminded of how transcendent a proper Provençal rosé can be. I think a lot of people judge rosé wine according to different, less rigorous parameters, wanting mostly to be refreshed rather than impressed. That’s fine, I guess, but frankly, I’d rather have both—and this is the wine to do it. Even at this young, just-released stage there’s a lot going on here, and as I’ve said countless times before, it’ll be even better in its “second spring” (i.e. next year). Put your nose in the glass and the fragrant scrub-brush of Provence sprouts up around you, beckoning you to the azure shores of the Mediterranean. Every great wine I taste these days makes me want to travel again, this one especially so. Load up!
Domaine Rimauresq was one of the original estates to be granted Cru Classé status when the classification was created in 1955; one of the reasons for this was a tradition of excellence that dated back to their “re-establishment” in 1882 (post-phylloxera). They were integral players in the foundation of the Côtes de Provence AOC and have crafted terroir-expressive red, white, and pink wines ever since. It’s an unusual property, nestled at the base of the Massif des Maures mountains and named for the Mauresque River that runs right through their property. The mistral winds whip through the typical Provençal mix of grape varieties: everything from Rolle (a.k.a. Vermentino) to Cinsault. Thankfully, the rosés are taken just as seriously as the reds or whites—harvested by hand at the crack of dawn, given a light pressing to collect free-run juice, then cooled for stabilization. They’re aged for a period on lees (spent yeast cells) with intermittent bâtonnage (lees-stirring) but malolactic fermentation is prevented to preserve the exquisite freshness that drives the flavor and aromatics.
Today’s wine is a varietal smörgasborg: Grenache and Cinsault supported by a smattering of Carignan, Tibouren, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Mourvèdre, and the white varietal Rolle (Vermentino). Quality in 2020 was extraordinary, and Rimauresq hits all the Provençal buttons, starting with the color: borderline salmon in the glass flecked through with gold. It’s tempting to serve rosé ice cold but allow this wine 10 minutes out of the fridge to compose its subtle aromatic complexity. It smells like fresh strawberries, citrus zest, ginger root, and acacia blossom. The palate is surprisingly deep and mineral by comparison: Meyer lemon, white peach, wildflower, watermelon, raspberries, and crushed limestone. The finish is both creamy and tingles with good acidity for optimal food pairing and porch drinking alike.
Rimauresq quenches thirst to the point that you might never want water again, but do not forget food! We recommend barbecued chicken and sticky rice, watermelon salad with mint and feta, or a heaping pile of crawfish and corn on the cob. Remember that a rosé as structured and classic as this one will serve you well even when the nights get cooler…but let’s not think about that yet: It only just got warm!
