Description
Domaine Dureuil-Janthial, Bourgogne Blanc
When we featured the 2018 vintage of this wine, rightfully naming it “one of the all-time great white Burgundy values,” it was already clear that Vincent Dureuil was a superstar in his home village of Rully. There, in the often-overlooked Côte Chalonnaise, he’s showing a deft hand with both white and red grapes, and making an irrefutable case for the overall quality of the region, with his stellar wines leading the pack.
But as Vincent continues to move from strength to strength, including picking up “Winemaker of the Year” honors from the prestigious French publication La Revue du Vin de France, it’s apparent that he’s not merely “the guy” in Rully but a force to be reckoned with in Burgundy as a whole. So today, we’re doubling down on our assertion that he’s crafting some of the most compelling and over-performing wines in the region—add to this the superb 2019 vintage and Dureuil’s wines become must-haves. Even Burgundy legend Jean-François Coche is of the same mindset: “If I see his name on a wine list, I don’t give it a second thought and simply order his wine.” Well, there you have it!
Even with all the attention, Vincent’s Côte Chalonnaise wines remain “insider” picks. Vincent’s “basic” Bourgogne comes from rarefied land: a single lieu-dit just outside the village (and AOP lines) of Puligny-Montrachet! There in the plains below the village, the family holds a tiny, 1.12-hectare Chardonnay plot called “La Combe.” It has north-facing exposition, typical limestone soils, and old vines between 60-70 years of age. On the palate, it reveals the riveting stony core of Puligny, with a finesse befitting the village. In a way, it’s a blessing for us because he could absolutely charge a lot more if the label did say Puligny-Montrachet; instead, this is as savvy a Burgundy purchase as one could hope to make.
Like other top-notch estates, the particulars here will seem quite familiar, beginning in the vineyard. Vincent and his wife, Céline, work their 17 hectares of old vines plots organically, with frequent plowing to control weeds and enhance the soils. Work in the vineyard and in the cellar is done in accordance with the lunar calendar and shows their exquisite sensitivity to the natural world. Indeed, as La Revue du Vin de France noted, “he takes care of his vineyards with the greatest respect for nature.” Grapes are hand-harvested and pressed whole-cluster for texture and aromatics. Whites are allowed to settle after pressing and the must is left to oxidize for 48 hours. After stabilizing, the juice is barreled down to oak (here, 20% new) for native fermentation and aging.
The Bourgogne Blanc matures for 10 months in French oak and another six months in steel to preserve freshness. All the wines are bottled unfined and unfiltered, with minimal sulfur before bottling. Today, none of these practices seem overly radical, but when the couple took over the estate from Vincent’s father in 1994, no other producer in Rully was farming organically, or even harvesting by hand! In a nutshell, that is the value proposition of this overachieving wine, where meticulous vineyard work, detailed winemaking, and old vines combine to offer an exceptional bottle.
It’s a serious and stylish drop that easily outpaces its competitors, with an opulent nose of ripe orchard fruit, white flowers, fresh cream, and grilled pineapple, all wrapped up with a whiff of smoky reduction and well-integrated oak. On the palate, it shows tension between pristine stone fruits and ripe, firm acids, coming to a crescendo of minerals and a long, seamless finish. In the glass or in a decanter it’s a deep, satisfying gold, well-saturated but bright, with just the slightest green tint at the rim. Delicious now, chockablock with textured fruit and nervy acids, this will age gracefully for 5+ years, allowing the expansive palate to reveal all the nuances those old vines provide. Serve year-round in Burgundy stems at a cool 50 degrees, alongside this luxurious recipe for scallops grilled in their shell, with white wine and citrus fruits.
