Description
Domaine Fayolle, Hermitage Rouge “Les Dionnières”
Whenever a scant supply of Fayolle’s Hermitage crosses the Atlantic, we buy it with the mindset that tomorrow is not guaranteed because it’s a coveted, affordable, hard-to-find commodity that provides valuable insight into the most fabled Syrah terroir on earth. But after catching wind of their critically acclaimed 2018 release, we knew waiting for the boat’s arrival would be an exercise in futility, so we bought our tiny allocation sight unseen—before it even left Fayolle’s cellar! It has just arrived, and we’re all euphoric.
Sourced entirely from a father-son team’s 0.8-hectare plot within “Les Dionnières,” this explodes with the brooding magic of Hermitage at a surprisingly accessible price, one we repeatedly nominate for the region’s finest when considering its caliber and pedigree. As we’ve learned from all previous offers, this wine sells out lightning quick, is made in ridiculously small quantities, and is universally beloved by critics. Why is this towering granite hillside so renowned for producing deep, timeless, and stunningly expressive Syrahs that age alongside the best? If you’re still asking that question, you haven’t had Jean-Louis Chave’s $300 bottling, let alone Fayolle’s spectacular $75 value! As always, our parcel doesn’t come remotely close to meeting the demand. Best of luck!
Jean-Claude and Nicolas Fayolle (second and third generation, respectively) are crafting superb, small-batch Hermitage in both rouge and blanc incarnations. Nicolas has been alongside his father since 2003, after obtaining a viticulture-enology degree in Mâcon. Previously, Nicolas’ grandfather, who founded the estate in 1958, was tending to apricots in these rows, not grapes. Jean-Claude slowly began the conversion as the estate evolved, but it’s odd to imagine, on such a treasured hillside where Syrah grapes are treated as diamonds, that anything else would be planted. Thankfully, the family is now 100% committed to grape-growing and winemaking.
The Fayolle parcel in “Les Dionnières” sits on a soft slope on the eastward continuation of Hermitage’s majestic hilltop (their plot is down the hill and to the left). Their Syrah vines are approximately 40 years of age and are planted in granitic clay soils with a large presence of small pebbles. Due to Fayolle’s lutte raisonnée (‘reasoned fight’) farming philosophy, along with the steep inclines found on Hermitage, they farm and harvest by hand—the lay of the land makes mechanization impossible anyway. After a whole-bunch fermentation with twice-daily punch-downs, the wine is sent into neutral French oak for 15 months. After a light filtering, the wine is bottled. Out of their already-tiny production, most stays in France, some is sold off to Guigal, and the rest is squeezed out of their importer so we can offer it to you.
Fayolle works vine real estate that neighboring producers charge hundreds for, so what you’re getting in a bottle of their spellbinding Hermitage is simply unrivaled for the price. Although it can certainly be enjoyed now, this 2018 won’t be parading its full spectrum of flavors for another 3-5 years and won’t hit its peak for another 10-15. Do your best to hold onto a couple of bottles, but also feel free to pull the cork on one and decant for two hours for a beautiful sneak preview of what’s to come. If you do, here’s what you can expect, courtesy of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: “tannic, full-bodied…boasts ebullient aromas of blueberries and boysenberries, leavened by hints of peppery herbs, black tea, and star anise. Expansive on the palate but structured and dusty, with a lingering finish of salted licorice and blackberry pastilles.”
