Description
Domaine Gros Frère et Soeur, Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru
Although the classic addition of the word “Musigni” on today’s label has been removed in recent vintages (due to rigid appellation regulations), this wine still comes entirely from the Gros’ special lieu-dit. As our subscribers are well aware, Clos de Vougeot is perhaps the most scenic and romantic piece of land in all of Burgundy, but it’s also one of the largest single-vineyard designations and thus more highly variable in comparison to most Grand Cru vineyards. More than 80 owners divvy up Clos Vougeot’s 50+ hectares of vines, but Gros Frère’s “Musigni” parcel sits in a prime spot near the top of the slope, adjacent to the fabled “Musigny” Grand Cru. This situation is noteworthy, and it’s reflected in the wine: it is a rich and soulful expression of Pinot Noir, and, like all of the Grand Cru wines in the Gros Frère range, announces itself forcefully.
Gros Frère farms in strict accordance to lutte raisonnée principles, they drastically restrict yields, and pruning is done to an almost neurotic extent to achieve the greatest levels of ripeness and concentration. In the winery, de-stemmed grapes ferment in stainless steel vats and age in entirely new French oak for about 16 months. The wine is lightly fined and always bottled unfiltered.
It always bears repeating that Gros Frère et Soeur’s Grand Cru bottlings require a clear head and a good environment when enjoying; one of those “study and reflect” wines that deliver unfathomable nuances. These are deep, plush, muscular Burgundies, and the longer you wait, the softer they’ll become. Still, there’s no wrong time to drink this 2019 Clos Vougeot: a long decant now offers up a powerful, sleek, deliciously opulent red but additional years (10-15) in the cellar will provide more earthiness, mineral savor, and finesse.
