Description
Domaine Jean Vullien, Saint Jean de la Porte Mondeuse
For all of 2020’s many failings, one bright spot has been the abundance of truly special wines we’ve been able to offer for less than $25. It’s been a banner year on that front, and the hits keep coming: Today’s Mondeuse from Domaine Jean Vullien is a value for the record books—a wine that so moved me I took a break from my normal Italian wine beat to advocate for it.
Even with ill-advised tariffs padding European wine prices, and even though this bottle journeyed all the way from the French Alps to our California warehouse, we’re still able to put it on the table for $24. What’s more, the wine is not merely rare but of a quality level that just defies belief. As Ian Cauble noted when we offered the 2018 vintage of this wine, Mondeuse is the “mountain cousin of Northern Rhône Syrah—literally, in the sense that DNA analysis has linked it to Syrah, and figuratively, in that it drinks like the prettier, wilder, barefoot version bedecked in Alpine wildflowers.” And, like the ’18, today’s 2019 is not merely a tangy, smoky, lip-smacking joy to drink now but is a sneakily complex wine that will likely age nicely over the short term. It’s not just impressive at this price, it’s incredible—and while many of you, like me, have been indulging in the many under-$25 gems we’ve had up here lately, there’s always room for one more. When it’s this good—this special—you make room. Once you’ve enjoyed your first bottle I’m certain you’ll agree.
Jean Vullien and his two sons, David and Olivier, farm a total of 69 acres across an assortment of vineyard sites in the Combe de Savoie, the deep valley east of Chambéry that represents the heartland of Savoie wine production. The vineyards are planted on steep, south-facing slopes in several different villages, many of which are considered “crus,” as in Beaujolais, and are often referenced on wine labels. The Vullien family holdings include 16 acres of Mondeuse in St Jean de la Porte and Arbin—the only two crus within Savoie that produce exclusively red wine from Mondeuse in a region otherwise dominated by whites. They’re planted in the shadow of the Massif des Bauges, on a scrabbly layer of scree accumulated over centuries as tiny pebbles came tumbling down from the slopes above. The soils below are dark Jurassic limestone and black marl; a good starting point for bright, mineral wines. Both David and Olivier Vullien have degrees from Burgundy’s Lycée Viticole and the family is known not just for wine but for an acclaimed vine nursery dating to 1890; they’ve supplied plant material to growers throughout France, and, according their importer, were the source of as much as 25% of the Chardonnay planted in Chablis after phylloxera struck at the turn of the last century.
Mondeuse is the red variety most readily associated with the Savoie, where it has been grown for centuries. Columella, the famous Roman writer, referred to it as “the grape variety that ripens amidst the snow,” and its nickname maldoux (“bittersweet”) appears in texts as early as 1731. In more recent times, it was thought to be identical to the Refosco grape of northeastern Italy, but genetic research seems to have ruled the out; instead, a link to Syrah has been established, which is readily recognizable. The two varieties share a similarly deep color (with purple/black/magenta hues) and lots of savory, spicy notes. As grown in the cool, upper reaches of the Savoie, Mondeuse has tremendous nerve and lots of lifted aromas. It is, as noted above, like a top-tier Northern Rhône Syrah in miniature.
The Vulliens aim for the most transparent view of the Savoie terroir as possible. They de-stem 100% of the grapes before a 72-hour cold maceration. A 10-day fermentation is followed by 20 more days of maceration with regular punch-downs to extract just the right amount of structure and color from the skins. The wines are aged in French oak for 12 months before being bottled without filtration.
The arrival of the 2019 was cause for celebration in our offices, so vivid was our memory of its predecessor—and it did not disappoint! It’s soulful, it’s savory, it’s full of lively energy…it’s the quintessential “mountain” red. In the glass, it displays a deep, nearly opaque ruby-purple core moving to a pink/magenta rim. After a 30-minute decant, the aromas come alive, with aromas and flavors that suggest everything from Côte-Rôtie to Cru Beaujolais to Saumur-Champigny. Scents of Damson plum, blackcurrant, violets, tapenade, graphite, and crushed rocks. It is medium-bodied and full of mineral grip and vibrant freshness—an absolute joy to drink. Serve it at 60-65 degrees in Burgundy stems and don’t be afraid to lay a bottle or two (or more) down for 3-5 years. It’s got the goods, and I can assure you my next batch of burgers, etc. off my grill will have Vullien by their side. I’ve made room—do yourself a favor and follow my lead!
