Description
Domaine La Sobilane, Rivesaltes
Southern France’s Vin Doux Naturel (VDN), was first made in the 13th century when mutage was discovered. Put simply, this is a process where a neutral spirit is added to prematurely kill yeast and suspend fermentation, leaving a concentrated, sweet wine with elevated alcohol (essentially the same practice used to make Port, but this does not taste like Port!). The Languedoc-Roussillon region has been the traditional home of these wines in appellations such as Maury, Banyuls, and Rivesaltes.
La Sobilane was a tiny property when it was acquired by bred-in-the-bone farmer Pierre Daniel in 1908 and it remained a small operation for quite some time, especially when the Great War reared its ugly head. His son, Maurice, took over in 1919, having been battle-hardened through years of serving his country in the skies as a fighter ace. From here, the property expanded and flourished. So, it would’ve been him and his two sons, Francis and George, who played the part in making today’s 1968 Rivesaltes. It is entirely made up of hand-harvested Grenache Noir that was fermented and fortified in barrel before resting in large foudres for a half-century. It was discovered and bottled without any additives by Philippe Gayral in 2018.
For gems like this, I must reiterate that it would be a crime to lose it in a cluster of wines at a party, so make sure you’re in a clear state of mind and in a quieter environment with close friends. One or two ounces should be served around 55-60 degrees in an all-purpose stem and savored slowly. Plus, because each sweet sip brings incalculable depth, power, and concentration, there’s no rush to consume your bottle: It can be enjoyed over several weeks and months if placed in the fridge with the cork tightly inserted—or further cellared for decades to come.
