Description
Domaine Lucien Jacob, Savigny-lès-Beaune 1er Cru “Les Peuillets”
Let’s jump right in: This is a statement piece, a breathtaking paragon of Savigny-lès-Beaune’s Premier Cru terroir, and a mellifluous ode to traditional Burgundy—unfortunately, just two barrels’ worth are allocated to America each year. Despite the perpetual shortage, each bottle cements the notion that great red Burgundy is the most emotionally raw wine experience out there, and it need not be expensive. So, next time you’re fancying a premium Burgundy experience, open today’s gorgeous, top-vintage 1er Cru “Les Peuillets” and try not to become overwhelmed by how much sublime pleasure and pedigree it delivers for under $60.
For me, there’s no mistaking Jacob’s rare statement piece for anything other than what it truly is: genuinely classic, cellar-worthy Premier Cru Burgundy that shatters the increasingly blurred meaning of value and authenticity. I’ve been draining vintage after vintage for nearly a decade now, and yet I still cannot get over the sheer value and extraordinarily consistent prices of each. I strongly recommend buying all six bottles and enjoying them over the next 5-7 years. Don’t short yourself: Only 50 cases arrived stateside!
In the first edition of “The Wines of Burgundy,” published in 1997, Clive Coates, MW wrote that Savigny-lès-Beaune is a “happy hunting ground for those seeking good, inexpensive Burgundy.” Of course, over the last 20+ years, dramatic increases in global demand, inflation, consolidation, and climate change have conspired to make “good, inexpensive Burgundy” largely a thing of the past. Fortunately, small family-owned properties like Domaine Lucien Jacob are still here to fight the good fight and Savigny-lès-Beaune remains a great destination for value in Burgundy. While high-ticket villages Pommard and Volnay sit immediately to the south and the majestic hill of Corton is just north, Savigny always seems to hide in plain sight with price tags staying well below those of its more prestigious neighbors here in the heart of the Côte de Beaune.
The story of Domaine Jacob begins in the early 1900s with the grandfather of current proprietor Jean-Michel Jacob. The Jacob family has resided in Burgundy for generations but their sterling reputation was originally built not on grapes and wine, but rather berries and liqueur. Jean-Michel’s grandfather saved his earnings from growing framboise (raspberries) and cassis (black currants) in the hills of the Hautes-Côtes-de-Beaune and eventually selling their spirits to establishments in Lyon and Paris. In time, the family was able to purchase a few small vineyard parcels in nearby Savigny-lès-Beaune. By the 1950s, Jean-Michel’s father, Lucien, was expanding the family’s vineyard holdings and making wine a focus. Today, Jean-Michel continues the growth of the family’s acreage in Burgundy with recently purchased vineyards in Beaune, Pernand-Vergelesses, and Gevrey-Chambertin. After almost a decade of experience with the Domaine Jacob’s wines, I feel confident in my conviction that wines originating from the family’s “home” vineyards in Savigny-lès-Beaune—most notably, today’s Premier Cru “Les Peuillets”—are their most consistently delicious and cellar-worthy creations.
Farmed sustainably, raised in mostly used French barrels, and bottled unfiltered, “Les Peuillets” displays old-school Burgundian pedigree with generously sleek ripeness. This is elite Burgundy for those who inhaled the 2015 releases and/or increasingly find themselves uncorking expensive Willamette Valley and Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs. Aromas of redcurrant, black cherry liqueur, raspberry, spiced plums, and orange peel, funnel out of the glass and leave a savory trail of damp moss, Kola nut, damp rose petal, dried goji berry, forest floor, pomegranate seed, and warm baking spices. The plush palate is approaching medium-plus bodied due to a textural ripeness that accompanies each layer, but the finish brings equal focus to fine-grained tannins, crushed minerals, and savory herbal components. Each sip provides seamless, unapologetically lush pleasure. At five years old, it has only just entered its prime and won’t be approaching a gradual decline for another five. Bottom line, Lucien Jacob’s 2017 “Les Peuillets” is a mesmerizing Premier Cru that deserves a proper Burgundy stem and a 60-degree temperature as you enjoy it over the course of a long evening. Cheers!
