Description
Domaine Maurice Schoech, “Harmonie R”
Just hearing “Rangen de Thann” sends an intense electric jolt down my spine: This universally hallowed vineyard is Alsace’s steepest and highest Grand Cru, and only a few treasured producers have the fortune of farming it. The limited cuvées that emerge from these ancient, volcanic sandstone soils are unforgettable. With barely one-tenth of a hectare to their name, Domaine Maurice Schoech’s veritable slice of low-yielding vines return just 66 cases of wine. And, somehow, that scant production is supposed to be fairly distributed amongst the world’s greatest restaurants/shops. We gobble up what little we can.
I imagine at this point, sharp eyes might be wondering why the fabled words “Grand Cru” aren’t proudly displayed across the front label. Instead of following contemporary wine law which states that a single grape variety must be used, Schoech prefers to channel the vineyard’s 700+ years of history by blending together Riesling, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. Therefore, your only visual clue to this wine being a rare product of Rangen de Thann is the letter “R” that follows “Harmonie.” The exceedingly limited results in 2017 were outstanding: This is a dry, vivid, generously textured white blend that must be owned by anyone striving to increase their understanding of legendary terroirs. No more than six bottles each.
NOTE: This very limited and special wine is only available as a pre-offer. It will be arriving at our warehouse in 2-3 weeks.
We could dedicate multiple pages to detailing the numerous characteristics that make Rangen de Thann one of France’s most bewildering Grand Crus, but here are the key points: Rangen de Thann Grand Cru has been continually producing grapes since the 1200s, and at 1,400+ feet, it is the highest-elevation Grand Cru in Alsace. It is also the steepest Grand Cru in the region, making it not only impossible to farm mechanically but extremely difficult to farm at all! The soil of Rangen, meanwhile, is primarily stone of volcanic origin, which makes it the only volcanic-soil Grand Cru in Alsace. Clearly, this is a singular site that produces singularly majestic wines.
In terms of character, the wines of Rangen are revered for their immense power and concentration, derived from the site’s southern location and south-facing orientation. There’s also incredible minerality, structure, and freshness from its elevation, slope, and volcanic soils. Olivier Humbrecht, Alsace icon and the region’s first Master of Wine says: “You cannot exploit a vineyard as difficult as Rangen and make generic wine,” and marvels at how this hillside’s wines are reliably “powerful” and possessing “a fine, salty acidity that will never be sharp.” I personally identify the finest examples of this Grand Cru by the subtle flinty/volcanic aromatic note that is unlike anything else in Alsace. Altogether, it’s a complex and enthralling experience.
The Schoech family lives one hour north in Ammerschwihr, but in 2001 they jumped at the opportunity to acquire the minuscule (.15-hectare) parcel of Rangen de Thann Grand Cru that produces today’s wine. The Schoech’s narrow slice of rows sits at the very top of Rangen and is composed primarily of Pinot Gris and Riesling, with a small amount of Gewürztraminer. All fruit is harvested and pressed together and this sacred trinity of Alsace white varieties makes for a true “terroir wine.” It’s all here: the opulence of Grand Cru Pinot Gris; the intensity and aromatic complexity of Riesling; the exotically alluring spice of Gewürztraminer. Still, appellation law stipulates that a wine must be single-varietal to bear Rangen’s name and Grand Cru designation on the label, so, rather than pull up their Riesling and Gewürztraminer vines and damage this exceptional wine, the Schoech family instead labels the wine “Harmonie R”—and charges far less than its downslope neighbors. It’s a win-win for everyone.
Schoech’s 2017 “Harmonie R” underwent a long, spontaneous fermentation, a year of maturation in stainless steel, and an unfined bottling before two more years of cellar aging. Now five years old, this is a wine fueled by understated elegance and intense mineral energy—a perfect example of just how influential a vintage can be. The powerful backbone of Rangen is on full display but this is for those who want superb freshness, waves of electrified fruits, and mouthwatering savoriness. The Pinot Gris presents itself in the form of juicy yellow apple and apricot, the Riesling sprinkles in smoky citrus, and the Gewürz delivers accents of lychee. After a minimum 30-minute decant, I suggest serving in all-purpose or large Burgundy stems around 55 degrees and recalling the mantra that the world’s greatest wines deliver the goods regardless of the context. So, although the food pairings for this Grand Cru beauty are endless, don’t worry about finding the perfect one because today’s wine is built to impress regardless. One more thing: these wines age incredibly well—10 or 15 years is not out of the question. Cheers!
