Description
Domaine Raoul Gautherin, Chablis 1er Cru “Montmains” Vieilles Vignes
Few wineries in Chablis, or even all of Burgundy, can claim the historical roots of Domaine Gautherin. The Gautherin clan has farmed vines in the village since 1585, and in the late 1950s became some of the first to produce and bottle their own wine. Raoul’s grandson Adrian, who grew up helping his grandfather and father in the vineyards, took the reins in 2008. Adrian focuses almost entirely on the vineyards, not the cellar; he often tells the story of how, on his first day of winemaking class, the professor told the students “you can’t make great wine without great grapes” and sent them all to see the viticulture professor instead. Adrian has maintained that ethos for the past 15 years, eliminating synthetic herbicides in the vines and limiting yields. His goal is to grow the most beautiful fruit possible to ensure minimal intervention in the cellar.
Of all the Premier Cru vineyards in the Chablis region, there are only a baker’s dozen or so that are deeply respected, and Montmains is among them. An important site in Chablis for several centuries, Montmains roughly translates to “medium-sized mountain” and is on the most advantageous slope of the Serein River’s left bank. Its southern exposure and slightly higher concentration of clay lend a pronounced creaminess and richness to the wines while the mixture of Kimmeridgian limestone provides superb mineral presence.
Gautherin’s three mature parcels here are around 40-50 years old and they yield aromatic, super-concentrated grapes that age in stainless steel with some neutral barrels. I love Gautherin’s description of this wine “It will convince the amateur and surprise the connoisseur.” Compared to the village-level Chablis on offer, this 2020 “Montmains” is a deeper, richer, waxier Chardonnay. It’s high-class Burgundy, full of honeyed notes, lemon oil, and ripe yellow orchard fruit with a lasting crushed-rock component. To be enjoyed now through 2026.
