Description
Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos, “Versos de Valtuille” Mencía
Mencía and Bierzo is hands-down the most exciting combination of grape and place coming out of Spain right now, so please indulge me for a moment while I dive right into this renaissance. Bierzo is a small DO (Denominación de Origen) located in the larger autonomía of Castilla y León which is most famously associated with the iconic wines of Pingus, Unico, Pesquera, and other Tempranillo-dominant producers. However, the mountainous Bierzo DO has much more in common with its western neighbor, Galicia, a cooler, more temperate area as compared to the rest of the country.
Until the past 10-15 years or so, Bierzo had largely been overshadowed by other wines in the autonomía, yet the region’s rich history extends over 2,000 years when Romans first recognized the hillsides as an ideal site to plant grapes. Today, the land is loaded with ancient bush vines, energized organic producers, and superb value; the perfect recipe for a massive resurgence. Virtually nowhere in the world can you find a multi-generation winemaking family producing breathtaking reds from century-old vines at THIS price. I was absolutely blown away by this wine—which has very little presence in the US—so I strongly urge you to get introduced before the mainstream catches on!
Bierzo is a minuscule region by most standards. Championed by Cistercian monks after the Roman era, Bierzo’s vineyards grew in notoriety as the region became a part of the Camino de Santiago. At just under 6,000 planted acres, the entire wine region barely achieves more acreage than the Oakville AVA in Napa Valley—not to mention a significant portion of its vineyards (roughly half) are over 100 years old. Many of the region’s vines are planted in valleys with steep southern exposures on schist soils. Lower elevation vineyards are rooted in clay soils. Schist soils provide excellent drainage and heat retention for hillside vineyards, and clay soils act like a sponge for lower vineyards, absorbing winter rains and stowing water away for the growing season. Yet, despite the natural capabilities of the region to yield top-quality grapes, only recently has the market taken note and, via producers such as Alvaro Palacios and Raúl Pérez, brought more recognition to the region. Several producers, such as Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos, thankfully remain under the radar—for how long I am unable to predict.
Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos is less a “diamond in the rough” than it is pure gold hiding in plain sight. Helios Estévez, patriarch of the family, managed to maintain the historic vineyards his grandfather planted while traveling between Mexico and Brazil, funneling what little money was left into the property. His four children—Helio, Carlos, Nandy, and Laura—founded Estévez Bodegas y Viñedos together to honor their heritage and ensure the six hectares of century-old vines would continue.
This offering is for their 2018 “Versos de Valtuille” Mencía, sourced from an average of 90+-year-old “bush” vines at 400-600 meters elevation in the village of Villafranca del Bierzo. These clay-dominant hillsides provide ideal sun exposure and water retention, a combination I observe frequently as creating a foundation for beautiful, juicy wines. Well-drained sandy soils at the top of the vineyard further enhance this dynamic by producing wines that lend headier, enticing aromas. After the grapes are hand-harvested, they are cold-macerated and fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks before pressing and aging in truncated 7,500-liter wooden tanks. Burgundy fanatics, northern Rhône lovers, and value seekers take note—the result here is extraordinary!
The 2018 Mencía shows a medium-plus ruby at the core extending out to a pale ruby rim. On the nose, this wine is truly Bierzo. A snappy, savory fruit mélange of plum pit and black cherry is carried by a seductively aromatic plethora of violets and rose petal. For a brief moment, it portrays the haunting aromas of world-class Pinot Noir and Syrah, and in an instant, it teases with something much more unique and exciting. On the palate this suspicion is confirmed: an insatiable thirst for “non-fruit” finds a welcome home in the endless savory undertones, namely sage, bay leaf, black licorice, and fresh aloe. The tension and concentration from the growing conditions become evident with a juicy acidity from start to finish, yet it maintains poise and roundness with a backbone of petrichor. The long finish evolves from its origins of nervy fruit and savory tones into an elegant mix of curing spices, cola nut, and dark green herbs. The faintest kiss of oak-derived spice and tannins add extra icing on the cake. I truly can’t stress enough how delicious this wine is right now, but I’m confident that it will continue to evolve over the next 5-7 years and beyond for those of us who have the patience (or interest). With Fall in full swing, stock up on this incredible value and save it for rainy days to come.
Open and decant this beauty 10 minutes prior to consuming to allow “bottling” aromas to subside. Serve slightly above cellar temperature degrees in a Burgundy stem. Keep this wine in your back pocket for the fall season, as it will come in handy with a variety of preparations. My favorite pairing with this is a no-brainer: traditional paella. Be sure to use good chicken stock (Aneto is a great brand, or invest the time to make your own). My favorite paella contains a mix of seafood (shrimp, clams) alongside meat (lamb, chicken). Alternatively, use one of my cold-weather favorites: Portuguese sausage and kale stew with white beans.
