Description
Ettore Germano, Barolo Comune di Serralunga d’Alba
The Germano family has been growing grapes in the village of Serralunga since 1856, their original family ‘seat’ being a piece of a cru vineyard called “Cerretta.” Although they made some wine, they were growers first, selling grapes to other producers until fourth-generation proprietor, Sergio—who, in classic Piedmontese fashion, still honors his father, third-generation Ettore, on the label—got out of enology school in 1985. Since the early 1990s, the family has focused solely on estate-bottling from its 10 hectares, including single-vineyard Barolos from the Cerretta, Prapò, and Lazzarito crus (all of which are in Serralunga).
In Serralunga, one of the Barolo villages with a higher percentage of sandstone in the clay/marl soils and a more westerly aspect to the vineyards, wines are known for having more power and tannic grip. Sergio’s Barolo clearly reflects its place of origin in terms of structure, but those tannins are refined, not rough. Whereas some Serralunga Barolos are driven by a very steely, savory minerality, Germano’s also tacks on a pleasing layer of dark, ripe fruit and floral aromatics. He manages prettiness in a place known for power (not unlike another Barolo/Barbaresco icon, Bruno Giacosa).
This wine is Germano’s “base” Barolo, combining younger-vine fruit from the estate’s three Serralunga vineyards. It was macerated on its skins for 20 days during fermentation and it was aged for two years in 700-liter, mostly used barrels (much bigger than the 225-liter barrique but much smaller than the 50-hectoliter botti some producers still favor). In the glass, it is a robust ruby red, while the nose leads with a little riper, fruitier note than many Barolos: black cherry and blackcurrant jump out first, followed by rose petal, violet, pomegranate, fennel seed, tar, leather, and crushed stone. The palate is medium-plus in body, with a pronounced minerality and iron-shaving tannins, but a very energetic, viscous core of fruit remains. Still young and compact, it is nevertheless quite long and floral on the finish, and with a rough decanting and about an hour of air, it blossoms nicely. It will also age 10+ years with ease.
