Description
Figli Luigi Oddero, Barolo “Convento”
Oddero Barolo for $48? Stop the presses! How can one of Barolo’s oldest and most revered surnames release a Nebbiolo of such staggering pedigree for so little? The answer lies within this sophomore release of “Convento” which is effectively a carbon copy of their pricier Barolo “Tradizionale” label. I’m serious: Today’s sensational DOCG cuvée is sourced from the same elite raw material, sees the exact same cellar regimen, and delivers the same strikingly soulful drinking experience. The only tangible difference is that you keep an extra $10-$15 in your pocket, and north of $150 if you commit to a full case.
Now, here’s my pitch on why a 12-bottle purchase is worth it beyond the savings: When you taste a noble, all-powerful Nebbiolo like Oddero’s 2017 “Convento,” every sensory receptor is engaged, illuminated, and enhanced. This is a wine of raw power and superb elegance that extends in all directions on the intoxicating palate. Furthermore, Barolo is one of the world’s most age-worthy and “complete” reds, and this incredible cuvée is no exception. I’m confident you’ll log it as an incomparable fine-wine value again and again when savoring over the next 10+ years. Enjoy.
Another exciting feature of today’s wine is that it comes from a relatively “new” label, established by one of Barolo’s oldest families: the Odderos. This is one of the founding families of Barolo wine and one of the first to bottle under their own label. Up until 2006, brothers Luigi and Giacomo Oddero co-owned the estate founded by their grandfather, Giacomo, in the late 1800s. When the brothers and their respective families decided to go separate ways, they divvied up one of the most enviable and extensive collections of Barolo vineyards which included parcels all over the appellation, not just in the family’s home base in La Morra. While Giacomo (the younger) and his family retained the original winery in La Morra—whose wines are now labeled “Oddero Poderi e Cantine”—Luigi and family acquired the historic Luigi Parà winery, about a kilometer away. Following Luigi’s passing in 2010, his wife, Lena, and children (figli), Maria and Giovanni, took over management of the estate. Thus, Figli Luigi Oddero was born.
Overall, the Luigi Oddero family farms an impressive 30 hectares of vineyards throughout the Barolo DOCG, with winemaking assistance coming from one of the most respected cellar men in the business: Dante Scaglione, the longtime right-hand man to Barolo/Barbaresco legend Bruno Giacosa. Scaglione, now a legend in his own right, has been gradually passing the torch to a young rising star named Francesco Versio, a Barbaresco native who worked with him toward the end of his tenure at Giacosa.
Figli Luigi Oddero’s 2017 “Convento” reflects the diversity of the family’s vineyard holdings throughout the zone—in this case, organically farmed sites in the famed villages of La Morra, Castiglione Falletto, and Serralunga d’Alba. The wine fermented in stainless steel and subsequently aged in large oak botti for 24 months. This was followed by an additional year in bottle prior to release.
While Figli Luigi Oddero’s 2017 “Convento” is technically still “young” by Barolo standards, it already has a tremendous amount to offer. After a 30-60-minute decant, it fills a Burgundy stem with a deep ruddy hue that transitions to a translucent brick-orange as you move out to the rim. The aromas are bountiful and strong: roasted black cherry, dried rose petal, burnt orange peel, red plum, tar, baked earth, menthol, ripe cranberry, and exotic spice. The full-bodied palate is ripping with fine-grained tannins that extend the flavors onto a long finish dominated by high acidity. Given its powerful structure, I was stunned by how approachable and enjoyable it is at the moment, still, its peak drinking will likely not arrive for another 2-3 years. Cheers!
