Description
François Gaunoux, Meursault “Clos des Meix Chavaux—Monopole”
Eightysomething François Gaunoux is what one might call a “vigneron’s vigneron”—a legend among Burgundian wine-growers. He began working in vineyards at the age of 15 and, over time, assembled an enviable collection of prime sites across the Côte de Beaune, especially in Meursault and Pommard, which is where you’ll still find him today—likely in the company of his daughter, Claudine, who’s run the estate since 2000.
And while the two share a passion for farming and do everything in their 10 hectares of estate vineyards by hand, Claudine did break with tradition in one noteworthy way: For many years now, she has “raised” her exceptionally pure, soil-driven whites and reds in tank only—no oak. Although there’s still a picture of a stack of barrels on the Gaunoux website, they’re said to be long gone; according to one account, at least some were dismantled and used as firewood. And yet Claudine’s disavowal of oak aging has not robbed her wines of depth or character. Having offered several of her reds from Pommard, we’re thrilled to present this 2016 Meursault from the family’s monopole (sole proprietor) vineyard, “Clos des Meix Chavaux.” Burgundy fanatics may well recognize the vineyard, not to mention the Gaunoux name: François and Claudine have fly under the critics’ radars, but savvy press and collectors know them as the genuine article. This is precise, perfumed white Burgundy with a long life ahead of it, at a price only a heritage producer like this one is capable of offering. But, since there isn’t much made, we don’t have much to sell: We must limit purchases to six bottles per person until our stock runs out.
“Meix Chavaux” is a well-known lieu-dit at the northern end of Meursault, right on the outskirts of the village. Big names such as Jean-Marc Roulot and François Mikulski bottle wines from the site, within which lies the walled-in parcel (clos) owned by Gaunoux. Steep-pitched and exposed to the southeast, it is known as a vineyard that consistently outperforms its ‘village’-level classification. It very well could, and probably should, be Premier Cru.
The family’s Clos des Meix Chavaux spans 3.5 hectares, and its unique positioning within the larger cru, with a wall around it, prompted them to employ the term ‘monopole’ on the label. Today’s 2016 shows off the ripeness of the vintage but balances it beautifully with mineral nerve and freshness. It has both the opulence and creaminess typical to Meursault as well as incredible precision—a balancing act that Burgundian Chardonnay is so uniquely qualified to pull off. In the glass, it’s a deep, reflective straw-gold with hints of green and silver at the rim, with perfumed aromas of yellow apple, bosc pear, nectarine, white and yellow flowers, fresh cream, and wet stones. It is medium-plus in body and almost honeyed in texture, very seductive and drinkable now even as it trembles with youthful energy. It is really a master class on the Chardonnay variety as grown in this place, without any unnecessary adornments, and that purity and knife’s edge balance will serve it well for aging: Be sure to lay at least a few bottles down for what I anticipate will be a thrilling evolution over the next 10-15 years. As a preview, decant a bottle about 30 minutes before enjoying at 50-55 degrees in Burgundy stems, putting its mixture of texture and grip to work with a saucy, French-inspired chicken preparation like the one attached. Both offer a mix of richness and refinement that’s hard to beat. Enjoy!
