Description
Georg Albrecht Schneider, “Vom Rotliegenden” Riesling Trocken
I’ll never tire of Riesling. It’s such a nuanced grape that always has something new to offer and today’s is such a perfect example of it in its most invigoratingly dry (trocken) and vivid form.
Furthermore, this back-vintage ’17 certainly qualifies as one of the most distinctive Riesling renditions we’ve offered this year, thanks to the highly unusual soil composition: red slate. Coming from a single hillside in Germany’s famed Rheinhessen, Schneider’s vibrantly textured “Vom Rotliegenden” is refreshingly nervy with plenty of mouthwatering citrus tinged with subtle tropical fruits. But it’s the crystalline acidity and unique slate minerality pulsing through this energetic Riesling that had us absolutely fixated—it doesn’t get more terroir-transparent than this! Best of all, this limited bottling is currently only available through us, so if it’s prismatic dry Riesling you seek, look no further than this sub-$30 gem!
The Schneider family is known for classic, traditional German winemaking, which makes a lot of sense given their history: Now in the ninth generation of family leadership, they can trace their wine heritage straight back to a deal with Napoléon Bonaparte. In the late 18th century, Napoléon was making his way up the Rhine, on an extravagant tour of the charming towns sprinkled along the river. To fund this indulgence, he sold off a number of his inherited properties along the way. When he reached the town of Nierstein and offered up his land there for sale, Kaspar Schneider acquired several vineyards, and the winery was founded in 1806. Today, that land forms the heart of the family’s holdings. It turned out to be a prescient purchase because the unique soil characteristics of the land are largely what have set the estate apart from the competition and earned the Schneiders critical acclaim for their high-quality, high-value wines.
For 40 years, Albrecht Schneider ran the show at the winery; he’s still around today, but in 2012 he handed the reins to his daughter, Ursula, and her husband, Steffen Müller. The farming and winemaking have remained consistent over time: the Schneiders use sustainable methods in the vineyard and harvest by hand; fermentation takes place in stainless steel; and wines age in old wooden barrels that line the underground cellar.
“Vom Rotliegenden” on the label of today’s wine does not indicate the vineyard site, but the soil in which the grapes are grown—it means, literally, “from Rotliegend,” a weathered, fragmented red slate beneath red clay soil found on a single Rheinhessen hillside known as the Roter Hang. This steep slope that leads down to the Rhine River is home to the “Hipping” vineyard, an outstanding site within the town of Nierstein prized for its perfect, east-facing sun exposure and protection from the wind. Rotliegend is worthy of the spotlight, because of the sublime radiance and richness of the wines it yields.
In 2017, April frosts in the Rheinhessen led to a seriously diminished crop, but the grapes that did survive ended up exquisitely concentrated, with electrifying acidity to balance the ripe, generous fruit—something which is on full display in today’s offering. This pale, straw yellow Riesling is a wine for nearly any occasion. The lush aromatics leap out of the glass, ripe with notes of juicy stone fruit, melon, green mango, lime oil, tart green apple, and lemon zest. Notes of white blossom, wet slate, crushed rocks, fresh green herbs, and a classic hint of petrol add interest and complexity to this brisk, textural wine. Prickly minerality perks up the voluptuous fruit, which finishes bone dry with steely, piercing acidity. Serve at a cool 45- 50 degrees in all-purpose white stems alongside simple yet flavorful cuisine, like this Thai-style recipe for tender steamed fish with piquant chile and lime.
