Description
Hanzell Vineyards, Chardonnay
Perhaps you’ve noticed that we rarely feature Sonoma Chardonnay, so for one to grab our attention, you know it has to be pretty special. And yet, without sounding like a walking paradox, this 2015 didn’t come as a surprise—it was a no-brainer.
Hanzell was among the first producers in California to grasp the idea that Burgundian winemaking techniques could seriously elevate the quality, pedigree, and longevity of California Chardonnay. In fact, today’s wine was so Burgundian, I couldn’t in good faith use it for a classic blind tasting. Sonoma producers often pay lip service to “Old World” influence crossed with ripe, “New World” fruit, but this is one of the few that truly nails it thanks to (1) raw material from the oldest continuously planted Chardonnay vineyard in America and (2) their brilliant, fastidious winemaking prowess. Hanzell’s been ahead of its time for decades, so trust us when we say this isn’t just a fantastic bottle of Chardonnay, it’s one of the most iconic white wines in all of California. And today, we’re able to offer it at one of the lowest prices in the nation. Enjoy while it lasts!
In the early 1950s, founder James Zellerbach was fortunate to spend extensive time in Burgundy while serving as a US ambassador to Italy. We’ve heard this story before: American visits Europe, falls in love with wine, returns stateside and plants a vineyard. But Zellerbach and his wife, Hana, did things a little differently. The couple was so serious about bringing the Burgundian countryside to Sonoma Mountain that they fashioned their Medieval-style winery after the famed Château du Clos de Vougeot. The similarities didn’t end there. Zellerbach also introduced—for the first time in California Chardonnay production—barrel fermentation, full malolactic fermentation, and extended barrel aging, all practiced with carefully measured restraint. The effect on the complexity and structure of the wine was eye-opening, inspiring a slew of producers in the region to follow suit. Today, Hanzell is run by the de Brye family, which hasn’t missed a beat in continuing Zellerbach’s legacy. President and Director of Winemaking Jason Jardine, who joined the team in 2014, has introduced biodynamic principles for full sustainability and biological independence.
Fruit for the 2015 Chardonnay comes from several of Hanzell’s estate vineyards, including the winery’s original planting, the Ambassador’s 1953 Vineyard—now the oldest continuously producing Chardonnay vineyard in North America. Eight clones work together to create nuance and complexity in the wine, including Wente (the first planted on the property), the Hanzell heritage clone that has developed over time, and two Dijon clones. True to the Hanzell house style, just over a third of the wine is fermented in barrel, with lees stirring during the first two months. Only the barrel-fermented portion then undergoes full malolactic, before it’s all blended together and aged in French oak. Unfortunately, there’s not as much to go around of this standout Chardonnay as we’d like—after a fourth consecutive year of drought, combined with cool, damp weather during bloom, yields were pretty low. The silver lining? We can thank that small crop for the show-stopping intensity and finesse in this wine. The vineyards’ high elevation and volcanic clay-loam soils also contribute serious depth and concentration.
This is such a rich and elegant Chardonnay, one that can easily unite both sides of the California/Burgundy divide. “New World” devotees will appreciate the structure and concentration of the wine’s juicy yellow apple, pineapple, and apricot, as well as the creamy, leesy texture, gentle kiss of toasty, honeyed oak, and crushed hazelnut. Dedicated “Old World” drinkers will love the sharp apple and pear fruit, zesty citrus, and honeysuckle undertones, and the bracing streak of volcanic minerality that runs through to the long, satisfying finish. In terms of body, this is the Goldilocks of California Chardonnay—not too lean, not too heavy—it’s just right. This is a seafood wine, for sure, rich enough to stand up to flavorful sauces but acidic enough to refresh. Try it at 50 degrees in a Burgundy stem with lobster risotto for the indulgent pairing this knockout wine deserves.
