Description
Herdade do Rocim, “Amphora Tinto”
You might have noticed amphorae popping up all over the map as the trendiest new winemaking accessory. The use of these magical clay jars dates back 6,000 years to the veritable cradle of winemaking civilization; it speaks volumes that amphora-aged wines still capture our imagination and hold their own against a world’s worth of modern competition. They’ve got a heady dose of attitude accumulated over millennia that seems to say, “I’ve been around this long for a reason.”
But today’s Portuguese red is the farthest thing from stiff or prehistoric. It’s an absolute treasure in a world where mechanization, yields, and scores supersede the aggregated wisdom of generations, a wine made like no other I’ve had the privilege of trying this year. A little-known but highly productive Portuguese region, Alentejo, is being reborn thanks to vivacious young producers like Herdade do Rocim, helmed by Catarina Vieira and her partner, Pedro Ribeiro. They’re regenerating vineyards with organic farming and breathing new life into the sacred production of Talha—amphora-aged wines made in a process that feels closer to alchemy than vinification. Today’s blend of 50% Aragonez (Tempranillo) is bolstered by a concoction of indigenous grapes before undergoing one of the most surprising and unique winemaking processes in the world. Whatever the methods, the results are nothing short of magic, and priced perfectly for generous exploration with your savviest wine-loving friends.
The “Amphora Tinto” is such a drastic departure from any other wine in the world, common tasting notes barely do it justice. Drinking it is nothing short of an adventure, a foray into a thicket of fresh blackberries, dark juicy plums, and sour cherry jam. The texture really shines; the amphorae manage to capture both freshness and opulence in a ripe swirl of dark fruits and cool minerals. The indigenous grape varieties impart wonderful acidity and don’t skimp on the complexity—each sip clings to the palate with velvety depth and refinement. But above all, this wine is tasty, like seriously, mouthwateringly delicious. It deserves to be paired with a hearty, tomato-based dish with lots of richness, like a slab of oozing roasted veggie lasagna. While the firm tannins will be softened by the acidity of the tomato sauce, keep in mind that they’ll naturally silken over the next three to five years of age—by which time you might be living in Portugal, drinking amphora-aged wine every night of the week.
