Description
Künstler, “Kirchenstück” Grosses Gewächs Riesling
Weingut Künstler! Despite being one of Germany’s most respected winemaking estates today, that was not the case 60 years ago because they weren’t even German! The Künstlers were grape growers in Czechia until post-WWII developments forced them to relocate to the small town of Hochheim am Main in the Rheingau. Gunter Künstler has run the estate since 1992 and Kirchenstück is one of their crown jewels. Originally owned by the church, this historic vineyard has mentions dating back to the 1200s. Today, the Künstlers own just over two of the 15 hectares here, and their vines are fully south-facing with ample wind protection.
The grapes are handpicked, with meticulous sorting to ensure zero botrytis, and both fermentation and aging occur in large neutral barrels. Their 2020 bottling is under screwcap so if consuming in the next 2-3 years, I recommend a generous decant before serving in large Burgundy stems. Once that reduction blows away, the Riesling greets you with an intense, compact profile of ripe, freshly cut green apple, smoke, salted citrus, wild herb, and white peach skin, all of which is firmly based in a bed of stony minerality. Be sure to save a few glasses for days two and three.
