Description
L’Archiviste, Maury
Southern France’s Vin Doux Naturel (VDN), was first made in the 13th century when mutage was discovered. Put simply, this is a process where a neutral spirit is added to prematurely kill yeast and suspend fermentation, leaving a concentrated, sweet wine with elevated alcohol (essentially the same practice used to make Port, but this does not taste like Port!). The Languedoc-Roussillon region has been the traditional home of these wines in appellations such as Maury, Banyuls, and Rivesaltes.
Today’s 1977 was produced with a colorful array of Grenache grapes—Noir, Blanc, Rosé—from Maury, a small appellation nestled within the sprawling Rivesaltes AOC. The wine underwent an initial élevage in concrete vessels before being transferred into old foudres. After over 40 years of undisturbed aging, Phillipe Gayral bottled the wine in 2021 (directly from the barrel, without additives) under his private “L’Archiviste” label.
For gems like this, I must reiterate that it would be a crime to lose it in a cluster of wines at a party, so make sure you’re in a clear state of mind and in a quieter environment with close friends. One or two ounces should be served around 55-60 degrees in an all-purpose stem and savored slowly. Plus, because each sweet sip brings incalculable depth, power, and concentration, there’s no rush to consume your bottle: It can be enjoyed over several weeks and months if placed in the fridge with the cork tightly inserted—or further cellared for decades to come.
