Description
Le Grappin, Beaune Premier Cru “Les Grèves” Blanc
Le Grappin’s origin story is one that many Burgundy connoisseurs have daydreamed about but never acted upon. In the mid-aughts, Australian-born Andrew Nielsen savored an “epiphany bottle” of Dujac Clos de la Roche and quickly made a pivot into winemaking. Andrew eventually found an opening at iconic Domaine Simon Bize in 2011 where he homed in on his vision. With his wife, Emma, they launched a micro-négoce focused on older, underrepresented parcels throughout Burgundy. They are one of the few, truly exciting bright lights on the contemporary scene. I’ll go one further: For my money, no other newfound producer can compete with the finesse, purity, and complexity of Grappin.
There’s no arguing the renown of “Grèves.” It’s among the largest Premier Crus in Côte de Beaune at 31 hectares, most of which are planted to Pinot Noir and owned by the region’s top négociants. One bottling in particular has been positioned amongst Burgundy’s highest ranks for many decades: Bouchard’s “Vigne de L’Enfant Jésus,” or as some of us in the biz like to say, “Baby Jesus” wine.
However, 1% of “Grèves” is still planted to a few old, hidden pockets of Chardonnay, and Andrew Nielsen made it his mission to locate and purchase this fruit. He was delighted with his discovery: Adjacent to the “Baby Jesus” parcel was a south-facing sliver of 50-year-old Chardonnay vines, and he was able to draft up an agreement with the grower to purchase the sustainably farmed, hand-picked fruit. In the cellar, the grapes were slowly pressed over several hours and allowed to settle in a chilled stainless steel tank for one day. The pristine juice was then racked into 300-liter barrels where fermentation occurred naturally, without any additions of SO2. After 14 months of undisturbed lees aging, the wine was transferred back into tank for three months. It was bottled without fining. Just four barrels were produced.
I’m not afraid to put it out there: Le Grappin’s 2019 “Grèves” Blanc is white Burgundy at its most perfect and transparent. Decanted for about 15 minutes and served a touch under cellar temperature in Burgundy stems, this slowly effuses the purest aromas of white flowers, honeysuckle, stirred lees, citrus curd, baked apricot, brined apples, crushed rock, green pineapple, tangerine peel, and hints of baking spice. The finessed palate is soft yet radiant, bursting with high-toned layers of orchard fruit and bursts of acidity. It’s nuanced, infinitely textured, and primed for 5-8 years of brilliant evolution. Enjoy.
