Description
Pascal Ponson, “Rosé des Gentes Dames” Premier Cru
Not many of us get to drink rosé Champagne on the regular: It is luxurious and expensive by nature, and thus an infrequent member of most people’s rotations. Far fewer get to enjoy the rare upper echelons—namely, the Premier and Grand Cru bottlings—but the Ponsons have made that dream an affordable reality for generations.
My assumption is that the big marketers of Champagne are gearing up to picket in front of small grower-producers like Pascal Ponson because their impeccably valued lineup is disintegrating the price-to-quality scale. Most notable is their “Rosé des Gentes Dames.” It’s become an accepted practice to shell out $75+ for “Big House” Premier and/or Grand Cru rosés, but the Ponsons scoff at that: Their superb rosé is entirely sourced from Premier Cru vines (that’s all they own!), vinified in barrel, and aged several years in bottle before a quiet public release at a price that shatters the norm. At $49, high-quality Premier Cru rosé Champagne doesn’t get more delicious and luxurious than this—and it is most certainly luxurious—so secure a few bottles while you still can!
Currently, fifth-generation Camille and Maxime Ponson are in charge and they are passionate about (1) crafting Champagnes that compete with the greats of Petite Montagne and (2) retaining their “grower mentality.” Being a grower-producer, Champagne Pascal Ponson handles every aspect of their production from soil to bottle. Using only Premier Cru fruit from Petite Montagne villages, Ponson’s “Rosé des Gentes Dames” contains a heavy proportion of Meunier rounded out with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. After fermentation in neutral barrels and a minimum three years of aging on its lees, each bottle received a dosage of just over nine grams and 15% still red wine, vinified by them, to achieve that beautiful deep salmon color.
In the glass, a frothy head quickly dissipates, revealing a vibrant salmon-pink core and silver reflections. Rivulets of carbonation zip towards the surface and burst outward, which seems to streamline the wine’s perfect aromas. With generously ripe, pleasingly sweet fruits and a refreshing throughline of energy, “Rosé des Gentes Dames” will make you wonder if they got the price wrong. For $49, you can’t wring out any more value from a stunning bottle of Premier Cru rosé champagne. Expect ultra-fresh notes of raspberry, strawberry coulis, red currant, Rainier cherries, citrus zest, pink grapefruit, fresh cream, and crushed river stones to emerge in various constructions with each soft, mouthwatering layer. Its immense level of opulence and intricately woven textures will provide a breathtaking, if not hedonistic rosé experience. This is not a high-acid, focused laser beam—quite the opposite! Serve chilled, around 50 degrees, and enjoy by itself or with a lineup of cheeses and other small bites over the next 2-3 years. Cheers!
