Description
Penley Estate, “Tolmer” Cabernet Sauvignon
Sisters Ang and Bec Tolley, with help from acclaimed winemaker Kate Goodman (Wirra Wirra; Seppelt), manage a Coonawarra landmark founded by their parents, Reginald Tolley and Judith Penfold Hyland. Although there was family connection to Australian icon Penfolds, the first wines at Penley Estate weren’t produced until 1988; the winery was completed in 1995. The estate now farms 240 acres of vineyards.
Coonawarra, about 40 miles from the cold Southern Ocean, is a relatively cool growing zone for Cabernet Sauvignon, resulting in wines of power and grace. It is also well-known for its terra rossa soils: a shallow topsoil of iron-rich reddish clay layered over limestone. The moderating ocean influence provides an ideal environment for the slow, even ripening of Cabernet grapes.
Sourced from older vines, the “Tolmer” bottling is marked by refined tannins and a well-rounded, balanced texture. During fermentation, some lots are left to macerate on skins for as long as 30 days, to extract more tannin. The finished wine is aged in French oak barrels (30% new) for 12 months, then for a brief period in stainless steel tanks, before bottling.
Deep ruby-black, the wine leads with aromas of blackcurrant, cassis, licorice, violet, chocolate, and a hint of eucalyptus. It is medium-plus in body and incredibly silky without being at all “flabby” or sweet. While the tannins are soft, the acidity is fresh and balanced, which should bode well for aging. Pair this with braised short ribs or grilled ribeye with lots of char.
