Description
Philippe Gavignet, Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru “Bousselots”
Ever since we visited Philippe Gavignet in March of 2018, his Premier Cru “Bousselots” has stuck with us. On a long trip featuring a glut of mind-bending wines, it was the polish, perfume, and depth of Philippe’s “Bousselots” that grabbed our attention and refused to let go. We got a small tranche of his 2016 back then, and have been eagerly awaiting a time when we’d get enough to offer it again. Finally, the day has come!
Put aside any notions you have of Nuits-Saint-Georges as the “rustic” appellation of Côte de Nuits before you crack into this: 70-year-old vines and Gavignet’s exacting hand produce a wine with a complex and seductive elegance more in line with the elite reds of next-door Vosne-Romanée. This is the sort of revelatory wine Burgundy’s reputation as the greatest terroir on the planet is staked on, all without crossing into the triple-digit price bracket any similarly performing bottle would land in. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or looking to take the leap into the land of blue-chip Burg, this simply needs to be in your cellar. If you don’t have room, I kindly suggest you make it, because, starting in 2025, this will deliver sumptuous perfection for many years to come!
The Gavignet domaine was established in the 1930s but didn’t begin bottling its own wine until the early 1970s. As though to presage the family’s future as ace Burgundy producers, Philippe’s grandfather was literally born at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. Philippe began working at the domaine in 1979, and in 1992 took over from his father as head of the estate. The Gavignet cellars are located in Nuits-Saint-George and it remains the locus of their holdings, with three different Premier Crus in their stables: “Les Chaboeufs,” and “Les Pruliers,” and the source of today’s wine, “Aux Bousselots.” It’s arguably their greatest holding of all, sitting atop brown limestone and white, chalky stones. The vine age certainly has something to do with the wine’s atypically seductive composition: the Gavignet’s plantings here date back to 1946.
Since taking over, Philippe has farmed his vineyards and made his wines with a delicate touch. He farms without herbicides and farms sustainably as possible, using pesticides only when absolutely necessary. In the cellar, after an eight-day cold soak for enhanced color and flavor, the wines ferment spontaneously. “Bousselots” ferments for about two weeks, and like all of Philippe’s Premier Crus, ages in 30% new French oak. For maximum complexity, it’s bottled unfined and unfiltered.
The 2019 Gavignet “Bousselots” pours a dark ruby with a crimson rim. Though a touch reductive right now, the nose is still pure, dark-fruited Burgundy opulence: sappy black cherry, blackberry, Damson plum, crushed raspberry, violets, black tea, clove, cinnamon, and crushed rock minerality. The palate is luxurious and deep, yet beautifully elegant, a combination of richness and freshness a lot of Burgundy misses. Every element is in perfect harmony here, the fruit-driven depth balanced by chiseled earth nuance and invigorating acidity. The finish lasts minutes, closing on the rocky minerality that’s a signature of top-flight Burgundy. After a 90-minute decant, drink this at 60 degrees in a large Burgundy stem, but hold onto as much of it as you can for as long as you can—this won’t begin fully blossoming until 2025!
