Description
Remoissenet, Meursault Premier Cru “Les Cras”
There is no “comparatively speaking” today: Bottlings of Meursault Premier Cru “Les Cras” are rare, plain and simple, and finding one of Remoissenet’s is an even harder undertaking. This legendary négociant was able to score a microscopic parcel in 2017, and just 120 bottles—yes, that’s all—are available for the entire nation. Unfortunately, we have less than that, so if you’re at all interested in obtaining peak (quite literally) Premier Cru Burgundy, do not hesitate on this rarefied gem.
I say ‘literally’ because “Les Cras” is high up there, located near the highest altitudes in the northern stretches of Meursault. This steep, tiny, craggy site is dominated by limestone and contiguously runs into Volnay, one of Burgundy’s epicenters for elite Pinot Noir. In fact, Pinot Noir long dominated this Premier Cru until some wisened minds planted Chardonnay many decades ago. Now, the few estates that do bottle white “Les Cras” emerge with some extraordinary, and extraordinarily limited, wines. And Remoissenet chose a marvelous, godsend-for-Chardonnay vintage to get in on the action: This 2017 is a tremendous feat that fills the senses with mouthwatering mineral tension and attractively lush textures that will withstand 10-15 years in the cellar. Word to the wise: If you open a bottle and experience its profound flavors now, I guarantee your others will not last long.
Since we launched SommSelect, we’ve watched with a mixture of delight and awe as this historic négociant firm has transformed itself into one of Burgundy’s most nimble, thoughtful, and wide-ranging explorers of the region’s many terroirs. They’ve done this by homing in on the greatest vineyards in the region, often purchasing parcels to complement what they get from contract growers, but in either instance, a focus on the very best raw material is paramount.
Given how many Remoissenet Burgundies we’ve offered, both young and old, the story of this iconic brand is probably well-known by now: The firm, whose catacomb-like cellars in the town of Beaune hold an incredible library of back-vintage bottles, was acquired—and subsequently supercharged—by a new ownership group in 2005. A dream team of Burgundy talent was assembled to bring the once-moribund brand back to prominence: Cellar Master Bernard Répolt; GM Pierre Rovani; and Winemaker Claudie Jobard. They’ve re-established the property as a quality leader primarily through investments in vineyards and farming (Remoissenet-owned vineyards are farmed biodynamically, and all contract growers are either organic or in the process of conversion, under Remoissenet’s supervision). As big as Remoissenet is, it is entirely accurate to describe them as a micro-négociant—they are as hands-on and connected to their vineyard sources as it gets.
Their outsized influence has certainly helped them identify, and subsequently acquire, the best vineyards in just about any appellation they choose to work in. Take today’s offering: The limestone-rich “Les Cras” site abuts Volnay and is perched at 780 feet in Meursault’s northern limits. In 2017, Remoissenet, calling on their extensive Rolodex of contacts, was able to purchase a couple of contiguous, hand-harvested plots from two small, organic-minded growers. In the cellar, the grapes were gently pressed full cluster into 228- and 342-liter French barrels, 50% new. Following a spontaneous fermentation with natural yeasts, the resulting wine then aged for a lengthy period in these barrels until bottling. This tiny parcel was released from their cellar several months ago.
Now at four years old, Remoissenet’s Meursault “Les Cras” is a gorgeous Premier Cru white Burgundy that is already strutting its luxurious stuff after a 45-minute decant. The nose initially greets you with heaps of lemon curd, lime blossom, honeysuckle, pineapple, and plush apricot while also exuding aromas like fresh butter, toasted almonds, baking spice, and vanilla bean from its extended lees contact and barrel aging. It’s a dense, yet always tense, Chardonnay that delivers “Charmes” hedonism and “Perrières” precision. Its medium-plus body provides delicious extraction and weight while crackling with crushed-stone minerality and pronounced acidity into the long finish. It’s a luxury wine built for your largest Burgundy stems and a rich main course, to be enjoyed now through 2030. Cheers!
