Description
Ada Nada, Barbaresco “Valeirano”
Among the many things that make Barbaresco so appealing is the deep roots of the families who make the wines. Throughout the region, and in nearby Barolo as well, surnames and place names are effectively interchangeable. In the Barbaresco village of Treiso, for example, the name Nada has been synonymous with the “Rombone” and “Valeirano” vineyards since 1919. These two sites, situated along the same southwest-facing ridge, are probably the two most acclaimed crus in Treiso, and while there are other producers bottling vineyard-designate wines from these sites, the Nadas are the ones with the house (and winery) on the hill.
Today’s 2017 from “Valeirano” is in every sense a wine grown in the Nada family’s backyard, as it has been for generations, and no matter how many Barbarescos I encounter with a similarly epic backstory, I’m never not blown away—especially when you factor in the price. The same family has farmed the same vineyard for more than a century, sourcing this wine from 40+-year-old plantings, and the wine still only costs $50. I know I’m a broken record on this topic, but where else can you find wine of such nuance, structure, and persistence? Answer: Nowhere. Sorry, but this never gets old to me, nor to anyone who appreciates the finest red wines in the world.
While not as well-known as some of the other heritage estates of Barbaresco, the Ada Nada property surely qualifies as a local landmark. The label was founded by Carlo Nada in 1919 and is now run by fourth-generation proprietor Anna Lisa Nada (daughter of brand namesake Ada) and her husband, Elvio Cazzaro, who’ve been at the helm since 2001. During that time, the property has gradually expanded from a mere three hectares to its current nine hectares of vineyards, all of them in their home village of Treiso—and mostly within the “Valeirano” and “Rombone” crus. All farming is organic, average vine age is 40 years, fruit is harvested exclusively by hand, and the family produces about 2,000 cases of Barbaresco wine per year. I was an eager buyer and seller of Ada Nada wines in my restaurant days—the value proposition always made them a customer favorite—and their “Valeirano” bottling truly epitomizes that.
The vines that supply the Valeirano bottling were planted in 1971, on a southwest-facing parcel ranging in altitude from 200 to 350 meters. After fermentation in stainless steel, it is aged for two years in large Slavonian oak botti (with a few French oak barriques holding any overflow), then for at least six months in bottle before release. To give you a sense of the scale of the Nada operation, this is their most commercially significant wine, with a production of about 10,000 bottles. Do the math on that—it’s not a lot!
Unlike the two vintages that preceded it, 2017 was a vintage known for more finessed, earlier-drinking wines, and I’d say Nada’s fits that description. It doesn’t lack for structure (this is the Nebbiolo grape, after all), but with some time open, this wine is approachable and likely to be more of a shorter-term ager. It’s a deep garnet red in the glass moving to a pink/orange rim, with a rich core of cherry, plum, and red currant fruit supported by scents of violet, rose, white pepper, leather, tobacco, and warm, wintry spices. It has the lithe, taut structure Barbaresco is famous for, with fine-grained tannins and a lot of mineral grip on the finish. Decant it 60 minutes before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems and watch it unfold over the course of a great meal. Looking ahead, I could see this woodsy red being a great choice for the Thanksgiving table, or for any meals incorporating game meats or freshly foraged mushrooms. Something earthy and soulful, like the wine itself, is what you should be cooking. Enjoy!
