Description
Alain Geoffroy, Bourgogne Pinot Noir
There are different definitions of “fine and rare.” Most wine people associate the term with hyper-expensive collectibles—your DRCs, your Harlan Estates, etc.—but today’s humbly priced Bourgogne Rouge is fine and rare, too. A Burgundy Pinot Noir this fine, for less than $30, is an extreme rarity.
And, I would add that such wines are becoming rarer and rarer with each new vintage. Domaine Alain Geoffroy’s vineyards are in Chablis and its outskirts; Chardonnay has been the family’s signature since the mid-1800s, but let’s not forget that (a) this is Burgundy, and (b) Pinot Noir from this area is increasingly capturing our fascination. While a northerly Burgundy appellation like Chablis, or Côtes d’Auxerre, might have been considered too “marginal” to produce reds of real dimension in the past, a warming globe is likely to place Northern Burgundy square in the spotlight. As often happens in our tastings, we’ve had several Pinots from the region cross our desks lately, and wow, have they been impressive—precise, perfumed, and more fruit saturated than one might expect from such a cool subzone. And back to that price: Practically unheard of for a red Burgundy of such grace, typicity, and pure deliciousness. Hoard this 2019—you’ll want it on your table!
Today marks the first time we’ve offered Geoffroy’s Pinot Noir, which comes as a bit of a surprise given how letter-perfect the estate’s Chablis wines have always been. The estate, founded in 1850, is based in the village of Beine, just west of Chablis, and covers 55 hectares of vineyards—all in the surrounding area. Given the length of time the property has been in family hands (namesake Alain Geoffroy passed away in 2020; his daughter, Nathalie, now helms the ship), the vines are very mature: 20 to 60 years of age.
Encountering Geoffroy’s 2019 Bourgogne Pinot recently sparked a lot of discussion here at SommSelect HQ. Yes, 2019 was a famously ripe and accessible Burgundy vintage, but in general, most of what we’re tasting out of Chablis and its surrounding environs, white or red, is deeper and rounder than what was coming out of the area in the past. For whites, that has meant a lot of Chablis wines that taste like they’re from the Côte de Beaune, but for the reds, it’s meant a transition from somewhat thin/austere to right in the Old School red Burgundy sweet spot. These are high-toned, fragrant Pinots that all the classicists out there should be seeking out.
Vinification and aging for Geoffroy’s 2019 was straightforward and traditional: about three weeks of fermentation in stainless steel, followed by aging (also in steel—very Chablisienne) for about 10 months before bottling. The wine shines a star-bright garnet-red in the glass, with all the classic red Burgundy markers one could hope for: black and red cherry, black raspberry, wild strawberry, damp violets, rose petals, loose tea, forest floor, and a hint of black pepper. Medium-bodied and vibrating with lively energy, it dances across the palate and blossoms nicely after a pop and pour. By all means, drink it now at 60-65 in Burgundy stems, but don’t hesitate to save some for the next couple of years. It’s quite a wine for $29, I’ll give it that—a rarity of the best kind. Don’t miss it!
