Description
Big Table Farm, “Wild Bee” Chardonnay
With two Big Table visits in as many years, I’ve learned a couple of things. First, Clare Carver is one of the most eclectic, forthright, and inspired people in the industry. Second, the winemaking genius of her husband Brian Marcy extends well beyond Pinot Noir and into today’s 2021 “Wild Bee” Chardonnay.
Driven by a plush core of brilliant minerality, judiciously influenced by French barrels, and loaded with creamy and vivacious orchard fruit, this transcends Burgundy and California comparisons—it’s in a class by itself! But that’s not all: 2021 is already being called THE vintage of the century by many Willamette experts, and while that’s certain to trigger a lively debate, there’s no questioning that this is the best iteration of “Wild Bee” I’ve had the pleasure of tasting. There is no artifice or insincerity here, and the only bull-you-know-what is used as fertilizer from their own herd of cattle. In short, if you’re after aromatically pure, generous, superbly balanced Chardonnay from the heart of pastoral Oregon, this is the golden ticket. Quantities are always limited but there’s good news: this was just released, and you’re among the very first in line! Our farm-to-table parcel is coming directly from the winery so please allow two weeks for it to arrive at our warehouse.
BONUS: We have more Big Table Farm up our sleeves. Keep a close eye on your inbox this afternoon!
With previous positions held at high-profile Napa wineries like Marcassin and Blankiet Estate, Brian Marcy is no stranger to the spotlight. But, when Clare wanted to expand their “farm”—which in 2005 consisted of chickens running amok in the backyard of their small home—they jointly agreed to move away from Napa Valley’s exorbitantly priced real estate and try their luck in Oregon.
They found solace an hour’s drive from Portland, in the small town of Gaston, ideally wedged between the sub-AVAs of Chehalem Mountain and Yamhill-Carlton District. They realized their dream in short order and now their 70 acres and 1890s-era farmhouse are replete with livestock, crops, beehives, and grapevines. They grow everything, raise everything—truly, this is a full-fledged self-sustaining farm.
But we’re not here to buy meat, honey, or produce (not today, anyway) so let’s get to the wine: Their “Wild Bee” Willamette Valley Chardonnay bottling pulls from each of the seven Chardonnay sites they work with stationed in the central and northern sections of the valley. Brian’s philosophy for his regional bottlings is a much-needed breath of fresh air: “It would be arrogant of me to think I could predict which fruit will turn into the best wine,” he says, “so I treat all with equal diligence.”
After hand harvesting, the fruit ferments via ambient yeasts in mostly neutral French barrels and, after several months of aging, is transferred into a stainless steel blending tank for a couple of days. Minimal sulfur is used throughout. It is bottled unfined and unfiltered, and each hand-applied label is designed by Clare—except for this one! This special, charcoal drawing was designed by another artistic talent, April Coppini.
It’s worth reiterating that this cuvée is just over a year old and was crafted without formulas and computers, so if you want to fully enjoy “Wild Bee” right now, a 15-minute decant and a large Burgundy stem is the best path forward. Still, there’s no denying the purity, vibrancy, and generosity of Big Table Chardonnay at this early stage.
