Description
Bolsignano, Brunello di Montalcino
When Brunello di Montalcino wines from the hedonistic 2015 vintage first came out, I thought to myself: How are they going to top this? Well, as many of you know, the region’s best producers went ahead and did so the very next year, with more classically structured, long-haul wines that received even more acclaim, in most instances, than the ’15s. In critic-speak, ’15 was “drink now/soon” and ’16 was “hold,” but I’m too impatient for that—especially when confronted with such an alluring beauty from Roberto Rubegni of Bolsignano.
As I stated when we offered Rubegni’s luscious ’15, buying a Brunello from Bolsignano is like buying a custom-tailored suit for an off-the-rack price. In SommSelect-speak, his ’16 is a “buy six and hold at least three” kind of wine. It will deliver now (especially on day two open) and many, many years down the line, at a price that will make you call into question every $100-plus Brunello purchase you’ve ever made. Organic, traditional, artisanal Sangiovese of this quality, at this price, will soon be a thing of the past, so take full advantage now.
Rubegni, as we’ve noted repeatedly, is a one-man show who does two things—Sangiovese wine and extra-virgin olive oil—and does them very well. But he doesn’t do either in large quantities, which makes today’s offer that much more special. In most instances, a wine this rare, from Certified Organic vineyards, costs more, not less, than larger-scale brands. That’s how scarcity works, right? Well, not today. If you love the classic, terroir-driven style of Brunello di Montalcino, this is one of the best buys you will ever see.
Rubegni produces about 4,000 bottles of Brunello di Montalcino per year, and it’s in a style that is worlds away from the engineered, magenta sheen of many “modern” examples. The process begins in a small vineyard that doubles as the Rubegni family’s backyard. Roberto is a passionate student and expert in organic viticulture and it’s no exaggeration to say that this is one of the most painstakingly farmed vineyards in Montalcino. Teeming with butterflies, bees, hummingbirds, and rabbits, it is an oasis of biological activity and harmony. Roberto spends most days in denim coveralls, tending the vines, personally monitoring the progress of each wine, and doing everything possible to ensure that his small farm remains a hospitable home for flora, fauna, and impressive Brunello and Rosso di Montalcino.
Rubegni’s ’16 has a more muscular framework than his ’15, and takes a little longer to reveal itself, but the hallmark of Bolsignano wines is balance and purity, regardless of vintage. Aged for 36 months in oak casks of various sizes before bottling, followed by further bottle aging before release, it is, like a long of “young” Brunello, rather fully formed right out of the womb. It’s the total Brunello package, pouring a deep garnet red and jumping from the glass with aromas of red and black cherry, currants, blackberry, black plum, dark chocolate, anise, underbrush, ground espresso, aromatic herbs, and sandalwood spice. It is a full-bodied style without being ponderous, its concentrated fruit checked by plenty of freshness and firm tannins. With 30-60 minutes in a decanter, this wine is offering lots of thrills and chills right now, but again, try to “lose” a few bottles if you can. Serve it in Bordeaux stems at 60-65 degrees with a beautiful ribeye steak, some duck confit, or, on the vegetarian side, pasta with wild mushrooms or risotto with white (or black) truffles. The season will be soon upon us when this wine will be what you want in your glass every night. Enjoy!
