Description
Brooks, “Crannell” Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir
Brooks’ 2018 “Crannell” Pinot Noir is that once-in-a-decade, stars-aligned perfect union of vintage, producer, variety, and site. Frankly, this stellar vintage, coupled with the family’s holistic farming knowledge and the hallowed Jory soils of Eola-Amity Hills, resulted in a luxurious Pinot Noir that deserves entry into “Oregon’s Best” club.
I’d even go so far as to say the dark-fruited, spice-laden liquid in the bottle competes with top Premier Cru Burgundy, and a few Grand Crus, too—regular readers will know I don’t make such a claim lightly! Bottom line, the price of entry for truly great Pinot Noir worth cellaring a decade-plus (be it from Willamette, Sonoma, or Burgundy) gets more exorbitant each year, but today, you can secure Brooks’ 2018 “Crannell Vineyard” release for just a touch more than a blue-chip Bourgogne Rouge. Grab whatever you can, because this is a wine you’ll want to drink often as it continues evolving for many years to come.
Brooks is an icon of the Willamette Valley. Jimi Brooks, a Portland native, worked in Beaujolais and learned the ways of organic farming before returning home to Oregon. There, he found a wine scene in its nascent stages and took work at pioneering estates Maysara and WillaKenzie. He founded Brooks in 1998, immediately instituted sustainable farming practices, and set about making some of the best Pinot Noir and Riesling in the Valley. Tragically, Jimi passed away only six years later. Jimi’s son Pascal, only eight at the time, inherited the winery, making him quite possibly the youngest winery owner on earth. Now run by Pascal and Jimi’s sister Janie, they’ve spent the past two decades bringing Jimi’s pioneering vision to fruition—which includes full biodynamic certification!
The Crannell vineyard sits just below the Brooks winery and estate vineyard. At 550’ elevation, on soils rich in the famed volcanic basalt of the Eola hills, it’s perfect real estate for producing deep, luscious Pinot Noir. The vineyard is farmed organically without irrigation, lending further concentration. This beautiful site is allowed to shine through thanks to the team’s approach in the cellar. Fruit is entirely de-stemmed, given a short cold soak, then fermented spontaneously. New oak is employed judiciously, rarely rising about 15%, and the wine matures for 18 months. In short, this is a densely loaded yet vibrant expression of an incredible vineyard.
Brooks’ 2018 “Crannell Vineyard” Pinot Noir pours a deep ruby with shades of dark purple. The nose booms with fresh red and purple fruit, black cherry liqueur, boysenberry, red raspberry, Damson plums, damp earth, dried leaves, black tea, and a hint of volcanic smoke. Beautiful, silken texture anchors the medium-plus-bodied palate, with ringing acidity and velvety tannins providing refreshing structure. This is Oregon Pinot Noir by way of plush high-end Burgundy, so again, grab as much as you can and enjoy frequently over the next 7-10 years. If you’re drinking one now, a 30-minute decant would do nicely before serving at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems. Cheers!
