Description
Burg Ravensburg, “Sulzfeld” Pinot Noir
It always helps to remind people that Germany is the world’s third-largest Pinot Noir producer, and that the vineyards of the Baden region, home of this knockout value from Burg Ravensburg, were developed by the same monastic growers who brought Pinot Noir to prominence in Burgundy. Established in 1251 in the village of Sulzberg, the Burg Ravensburg castle and winery sits atop a vine-draped hill every bit as dramatic as Corton in Burgundy, and over the course of its many centuries has acquired the most impressive collection of individual vineyards in the region—including 80% (!) of all the Grosses Lage (Grand Cru) parcels in the area. To top it all off, Burg Ravensburg is said to be the largest estate in Germany to be Certified Organic. That is a rather extraordinary resume for a $30 bottle of wine.
Located at the northern end of the Baden appellation, Sulzfeld is in the Kraichgau sub-region, which is known for its gypsum-rich marl soil, called keuper, which combines red clay with limestone and sandstone. Their Grosses Lage Pinot Noir vineyard is a steep, south-facing parcel called “Loechle,” which is supplemented with fruit from other Sulzfeld-area sites to create this “village-level” bottling.
This 2018 is a savory and perfumed style with modest alcohol, with tangy red and black fruit balanced by the wonderfully smoky, woodsy notes that characterize Baden Pinot Noir (it’s not far from the Black Forest, after all). In the glass, it shines a medium garnet-red and sends up a wave of red fruit and floral aromas after a few swirls: cherry, cranberry, and wild strawberry, followed by lots of underbrush, wood smoke, warm spice, and wild herbs. It was aged 12 months in used casks, so oak-derived flavors are mostly an accent note, with lots of turned soil and black pepper savor on the finish. Serve it at 60 degrees in Burgundy stems and marvel at its ability to take on all comers at the dinner table: salmon, roast chicken, grilled steaks, you name it. We couldn’t resist something thematic for this wine, so see the attached recipe for spaetzle with mushroom gravy. That’s going to be a meal to remember—and replicate! Enjoy!
