Description
Burn Cottage, Estate Pinot Noir
Want some of the tip-top “New World” Pinot Noir in existence? Then you’ll need to look down—way down—to the world’s southernmost wine region, Central Otago. If you crave thoroughly pure and complex Pinots, Burn Cottage’s flagship cuvée will place you in a blissful stupor: With full-on biodynamics and a scrupulous cellar regimen that would make Burgundy’s old guard take copious notes, these wines are equipped with some of the most doting and consistently high praise of contemporary times.
Keep in mind, it’s not just one voice either, but rather a collective buzz from Masters of Wine to trusted publications to idolized critics. Why all the chatter? The exotic locale of Central Otago has seen a recent explosion of talent determined to extract the finest grapes from this Burgundy-esque climate, and Burn Cottage’s winemaking guru, Ted Lemon, is among its sharpest interpreters. You likely know him from Littorai, a premium California label decorating top lists in San Francisco, New York, London, Tokyo, and every major fine-dining hub between. I imagine those same lists are now making room for today’s exquisite New Zealand Pinot Noir. Enjoy!
In 2002, husband and wife Marquis and Dianne Sauvage stumbled upon an undulating, sheltered-from-the-elements property. There were no neighbors or planted vines, and the only inhabitants were grazing sheep. They purchased the property in a lively back-and-forth auction and the first matter of business was securing the services of Ted Lemon. With a propensity for Central Otago’s wines and climate, Ted eagerly hopped aboard and biodynamic practices were immediately put into place—terroir expression was to be the driving force behind Burn Cottage’s wines. Back in 2002, biodynamic farming in Central Otago was practically unheard of, but that didn’t muddy the vision of this small team. They quickly brought in Highland cattle to graze the land, employed a bee population, and planted an olive grove. Their motto is as follows: “Great wines are not made from fruit; they are born of the soils which nurture the vines.” Essentially, this is a self-sustaining farm that just so happens to make stunning expressions of Pinot Noir.
Nestled in the mountainous landscape of the South Island, Central Otago is the southernmost commercial winegrowing region in the world, yet it still claims a climate similar to Burgundy. Today’s estate bottling hails from their biodynamically farmed “Burn Cottage” vineyard that is further divided into a number of low vine density blocks, each with its own distinct microclimate. Soils range from sandy loam to granite to schist, all of which are products of glacial deposits and ancient river beds. Due to a cooler growing season in 2020, the fruit ripened on the vine a bit longer, and the crop was finally harvested by hand in late March. In the cellar, 87% of the grapes were de-stemmed and a natural, ambient-yeast fermentation occurred. Burn Cottage adheres to natural, hands-off principles throughout the entire process, limiting the use of sulfur and almost always avoiding racking. The wine matured in French barrels, 25% new, for one year. It was bottled unfiltered.
In the glass, Burn Cottage’s newest 2020 rendition reveals a deep ruby red core with bright magenta hues. After 15-30 minutes in a decanter, the wine unfurls with soft explosions of Damson plum, candied violet, Kola extract, baking spice, black raspberry liqueur, ripe cherry, damp moss, thyme, rose petal, crushed stone, and blood orange. The palate is medium-bodied, elegant, and supremely supple (the cooler vintage truly shines here) with velvet-gloved tannins and juicy bursts of acidity extending the savory finish. It’s immensely impressive now, although, like a great Burgundy or Willamette Pinot, I suspect another 2-3 years of evolution in bottle will reveal multiple new dimensions.
