Description
Cave Gargantua, Torrette Supérieur “Labié”
When we introduced the Western Hemisphere to an obscure Alpine producer two years ago, we were thunderstruck by the remarkable speed at which our inventory vanished: Everyone lurched at the opportunity to secure a garagiste wine that nobody had ever heard of, and then radio silence followed—until July of 2020, when we secured a fraction of Cave Gargantua’s new vintage. Again, the last bottle slipped through our grasp before we knew it. Since that time, another year has passed, and we’re now the lucky recipients of the newest vintage of “Labié.” Are you seeing a pattern here? This is a must-try, micro-produced red (just 116 cases total) that is destined to sell out, not just for its certain fame on the horizon but also for the sheer pleasure it brings.
I have to believe there’s something about the Italian Alps’ magical allure and ancient terroir that lifts “Labié” to another level: It’s is a gargantuan, polished, soulful red blend that bursts with a mixed bag of lush mountain berries, spices, and herbs. Experiencing this wine will open up a portal, one that will reshape perspectives about the Aosta Valley and Italian wine as a whole. Unfortunately, the tight restriction of previous offers also applies to today’s 2019: Only six bottles per person!
When you encounter wines from the Valle d’Aosta, or Vallée d’Aoste in French, you’re experiencing a (viti)cultural convergence of French, Italian, and Swiss traditions. French, or a local patois that skews heavily French, is the main language here. As such the labels on bottles can get confusing—typically you’ll see both Italian and French used simultaneously, much as it is on street signs, etc., in the region.
Laurent Cunéaz’s passion for the vine was triggered by working the high-altitude vineyards of Valle d’Aosta with his grandfather. This desire led him to a winemaking position at the Institut Agricole Régional, an agricultural school that has propelled many local vintners to global recognition. In 2013, Laurent Cunéaz left his position here in order to start his own path at Cave Gargantua. If the Cunéaz surname looks familiar, you’ve got quite a keen eye. Laurent’s winery is only 1,000 feet from Cantina di Cunéaz Nadir (a SommSelect favorite), but, bizarrely, there’s no familial relation!
Laurent and his brother, André, are headquartered in the Aosta Valley subzone of Torrette (in the village of Gressan, where vineyards often climb to 800+ meters). Vines here occupy terraces and slopes along the Dora Baltea River and are among the highest-elevation sites in Europe. Although there’s ample water in the form of mountain runoff (surging through Roman-era aqueducts that criss-cross the valley), Mont Blanc provides a “rain shadow” effect, not unlike the one Alsace sees from its Vosges range. Summers up here are drier and warmer than you might expect, although the diurnal swings—daytime heat spikes followed by cool nights—are extreme.
To qualify for the Torrette Supérieur DOC, the Petit Rouge grape must comprise a minimum of 70% of the blend. Laurent, with just five acres of old-vine (40-60 years) parcels, incorporates 75%, rounding out the rest with two other indigenous grapes: Fumin and Vien de Nus. Attaching “Supérieur” to Torrette also means the wine must cross a higher ABV threshold and mature longer before release, which Laurent easily achieves. After hand-harvesting the crop, this full-bodied yet wonderfully graceful wine aged for 12 months in massive, 1,500-liter tronconic wooden vats. It was then transferred to stainless steel tanks for another six months before bottling.
I’ve tasted three of Laurent’s six releases, and have been mightily impressed every time. These wines just have the “it” factor. Although they’re deep, hedonistic, and soulful, they’re also brimming with grace and built for longevity. In the glass, a vivid yet opaque ruby-purple core moves out to bright magenta hues. The intoxicating nose is ripe, savory, and energetic, revealing aromas of huckleberry, black raspberry liqueur, mountain berries, wild herbs, crushed stone, lavender, damp rose petal, menthol, exotic spices, and dried Damson plum. You’ll be transfixed by the lush, dark-fruited intensity of each layer, and then the elegant, mineral-flecked finish of each sip. Served in large Burgundy stems at 60 degrees after a 15-30-minute decant, this will dazzle lovers of Syrah, Mondeuse, Dolcetto, Barbera, Mencía, and many more. We expect this to evolve beautifully over the next 5-7+ years. Enjoy!
