Description
Champagne Billecart-Salmon, Brut “Sous Bois” MAGNUM
Wow. I already knew Billecart-Salmon’s “Sous Bois” deserved a prominent position in Champagne’s contemporary history books, but experiencing this particular release out of a magnum elevated it beyond our comprehension. If Billecart’s goal was to expressly craft a cuvée that would command the top echelon of non-vintage Champagne, they’ve done it.
For one, this limited new magnum release is predominantly from the exceptional, if not all-time great, 2012 vintage. Second, it’s a masterful blend of Champagne’s three noble grapes from the region’s top Premier and Grand Crus. And third, it aged in Burgundy barrels for six months followed by seven years in magnum before an allocated release. The results are striking: It delivers the opulence of Krug’s “Grande Cuvée” and the vinous precision of Egly-Ouriet’s “Tradition,” all while being comfortably wrapped in Billecart’s signature finesse and elegance. We even went multiple steps further by tasting it alongside two doubly priced luxury Vintage Champagnes, and “Sous Bois” remained the clear standout. These magnums have been parceled out in a ruthlessly small and regimented fashion (I’ve already asked twice if we can get more; the short answer is “no”), so what little we have to share today is it. Whether savoring now or keeping for 5-10 years, this is guaranteed to stun. Again, wow.
[NOTE: Due to the wine’s large format, we are unable to accommodate “Build a Case” purchases. Complimentary Ground Shipping on three magnums.]
Billecart-Salmon is one of the oldest small Champagne houses still under family control. It was founded in 1818 by Nicolas-François Billecart and Elisabeth Salmon in the village of Mareuil-sur-Aÿ and is now run by seventh-generation proprietor Mathieu Roland-Billecart. The family farms 100 hectares of their own vines, supported by another 100+ hectares from growers across 40 different cru villages. The house is one of the pioneering producers of rosé in the region, and these days, rosé accounts for a more substantial percentage of its sales than most of its contemporaries. But right now, my sights are set on their “Sous Bois,” a thrillingly rich and layered oak-aged cuvée that is rarely bottled in magnum format.
Billecart’s “Sous Bois” is a relatively new creation that was first rolled out to the US market in 2011, and it has absolutely gripped the Champagne-drinking world. It’s an equal blend of the region’s three noble grapes from a variety of premium terroirs: the Chardonnay is from several Premier and Grand Cru villages in the Côte des Blancs; the Pinot Noir from Premier and Grand Crus villages in the Montagne de Reims and Grande Vallée; and the Meunier from a collection of villages along the right bank of Vallée de la Marne. Approximately 70% of this wine comes from the legendary 2012 vintage, with the rest drawn from their extensive reserve wine program (older vintage wines preserved in a variety of vessels).
At the cuverie, the gently pressed juices for each variety were separately funneled into a battery of used Burgundian barrels for vinification, partial malolactic fermentation, and aging for a total of six months—hence the cuvée’s name, “Sous Bois” (“under wood”). Afterward, the 2012 base wines were blended with old reserves and then transferred into magnums to begin the second stage of their long journey. They rested in Billecart-Salmon’s labyrinthine cellars for seven years before disgorgement and a subsequent seven-gram dosage which was, and always is, decided by a blind tasting committee. Following several more months of rest to allow the sugar to integrate, we purchased our tiny allocation and the magnums were shipped directly to our door. Another great detail is that the front label is made from genuine oak.
If you enjoy (1) rich, full-bodied Champagnes, (2) drinking top-vintage, top-Grand Marques Champagne, and (3) making an indelible impression during a dinner party or event, this is for you. This new “Sous Bois” release which, again, is rarely bottled in magnum, is the best I’ve had from Billecart. It explodes with lush, toasty, creamy flavors of grilled peach and pineapple, red and yellow apple, Mirabelle plum, honey brioche, nougat, citrus peel, crushed stones, and slight oak spice. Every sip is loaded with soft, energetic, and deeply textured flavors that resonate for 20+ seconds—which is where you benefit from the large format because a standard 750ml would evaporate far too quickly. While exceptional now and ready to impress all comers, it has the structure and pedigree to keep evolving for many more years. This behemoth offer is guaranteed to blow you away!
